Aux iles canaries

              AUX ILES CATVARIES
LE DOCTEUR R. VERNEAU
A. H E N N U YEli, I M ~ ' P L I M E U R - ~ D I S E U R
47, RL'E LAI:I:ITTE, 47
-
i891
I)ri ¡ti (lc roprodiiction ct dc Irndtic~ion r~~scrv&r.
TWO YEARS IN
THE CANARIES
An Account of Travel by Coach, Foot
and Beast, in the Canary Islands,
with &e object of circulating
the Scriptures in the
Spanish Tongue
BY
CHARLES F. BARKER
L O N D O N :
EYm AND SPOTTISWOODE, LTD., EAST HARDING 52.. E.C. 4,
'9'7.
ALLAINM ANESSOMN ALLETD: escription de PUnivers contenant les
differents .&temes du Monde. París, 1685. Págs. 113-117.
De la ville de Canarie
"Cetté ville est bastie dans la partie Orientale de I'Isle, dont elle porte
le nom, sur le penchant, & au pied d'une petite Montagne, que vient insensi-blement
se terminer la Mer.
Elle est assez bien peuplée cause de la frequentation des voyageurs qui
la viennent d'ordinaire reconnoistre, quand ils vont aux Indes Orientales, ou
aux Occidentales.
Elle e& honorée d'un Siege Episcopal, & de quelques Convents de Reli-gieux
de Saint Francois & autres Ordres.
L'Evesque de Canarie est Suffragant de YArchevesque de Seville en
Espagne".
Les voyages de sieur Le Maire aux Zsles Canaries, Cap-Verd, Sene-gal
et Gmbie. París, 1695. Págs. 22-24.
''Le moüillage est tres-bon en ce lieu-12, pourvíi qu'on ne s'approche pas
trop prés de la Ville, dont des rochers cachez sous l'eau rendent l'accés
dangereux. Elle est défendue d'un Chateau situé sur une montagne, de l'insulte
qu'elle pourroit recevoir des Vaisseaux qui voudroient l'attaquer. Elle est
peuplée de douze mille Insulaires tresbraves, & capables de repousser qui-conque
oseroit les insulter. N6tre Barque moüilla 2 dix-huit brasses d'eau
devant la Ville.
Son enceinte est d'environ une lieue de tour. La plfipart des maisons y
sont assez bien baties, mais bases, n'aiant que deux étages. Elles sont tozttes
en terrasse par dessus, de sorte que le toict n'en paroissant point, on diroit
que ce sont des maisons bríilées. Pendant le jour on ne voit presque personm
dans les ru&.
Quoique l'Evgque, le Gouverneur, & les gens de qualité fassent leur
residence 5 Teneriffe, c'est cependant dans cette Capitale qu'est le Siege
Episcopal, le Tribunal de YInquisition, & le Souverain Conseil, qui est comme
le Parlernent des sept Isles. On y voit quatre Maisons Religieuses, scavoir
une de Dominicains, & une de Francz'scains, les deux autres sont de Bernar-dines,
& de Recolletes".
GEORGEG LAS: A Descriptim of the Canary Zskands. Londres, 1764.
Pág. 227.
Traducción española por Constantino Amar de Acevedo: DescrZp-c-
i& de iüs islas Cmm.as 1764. La Laguna, i976.
"The landing-place is in the very bight or bottom of the bay, where the
water is generally so smooth, that a boat may lie broadside to the shore,
without danger. At this landing-place stands a hermitage, or chapel, dedicated
to St. Catherine, and a castle, mounted with a few guns, but of no strength.
From thence along shore to the eastward, at the distance of a league, is the
city of Palmas, the capital of the island: between which, and the above-mentioned
castle are two other forts, mounted with guns, these have no
garrisons, except a few invalids. At the other end of the city is another castle
called St. Pedro. None of al1 these are of any strength.
Shipping that discharge their cargoes at Palmas, generally in good weather
anchor within half a mile of the town, for the quicker dispatch; but that
placa is not a good road. The city oj Palmas is of no strength to oppose an
attack; but it is large, and contains severa1 fine buildings, partie larly the
cathedral of St. Anne, with many churches, convents of Friars of al1 orders,
and nunneries. The private houses here are in general good, being al1 built
of stone. The city is divided into two parts, which have a ccmmunication
with each other by a bridge, thrown over a small stream of water. The
number of inhabitants in Palmas 1 guess to be about six thousand".
2
«El viajero universal o noticia del mundo antiguo y nuevoD. Ma- N
drid, 1797. Tomo XI. Págs. 209-211. O
n "La ciudad del Real de las Palmas, capital de esta isla, está situada al
-
m o
Oriente, corriendo por la orilla del mar Norte á Sur: divídela el río Giniguada E E
en dos grandes barrios, Triana y la Vegueta. Por el Poniente tiene dos riscos 2
elevados, pero queda e n un llano la poblacion que se compone de 9435 per- -E
sonas. Comunicanse los dos barrios por un puente de madera: en el barrio
de la Vegueta que mira al Sur está la Catedral, la Audiencia, casas de Con- $
cejo, Inquisicion, Palacio Episcopal, Conventos de Santo Domingo, San Agus- --
tin, Monjas Recoletas Bernardas, Colegio que fue de los Jesuitas, Hospital de 0
m
San Martin con la cuna de expósitos. Tiene buenas calles y caserio; una E
buena plaza con una fuente en medio. La Catedral tiene tres naves de largo, O
y quatro de cruzado con seis columnas góticas que la sustentan; su arqui-tectura
es tocia gótica, y pudiera competir con las mejores, si estuviera aca-bada.
Entre sus muchas alajas sobresale una lámpara de quinientos marcos -
b
de plata, hecha en Génova, que costó quarenta y ocho mil reales de plata. l
El Cabildo Eclesiástico se compone de ocho Dignidades, diez y seis Canó- n
nigos, doce Racioneros con voto, ocho Capellanes Reales, y CapiIla de música. n
Contigua á la Catedral, y á sus espaldas está la iglesia del Sagrario que sirve 3
de Parroquia, y es la única de la ciudad: sirvenla dos Curas por nombra-miento
del Cabildo y aprobacion del Obispo.
La Keai Audiencia se compone de u11 Regente, tres Cidores y ün Fiscal
con los correspondientes Ministros. La ciudad tiene veinte y quatro Regidores
perpetuos, y un Corregidor que es Capitan á guerra, con quien parte la juris-diccion
un Teniente Letrado. El Tribunal de la Santa Inquisicion consta regu-larmente
de dos 6 tres Inquisidores que nombran en las villas y lugares ma-yores,
Comisarios, Familiares, &c. El Tribunal de la .Cruzada se forma de tres
individuos del Cabildo Eclesiástico, que tienen Comisarios en los pueblos mas
principales.
El barrio de Triana que está al Norte, goza de un sitio mas iiano y de
calles mas espaciosas, bien que las casas son pequeñas, baxas, y todas con
azoteas. En él estan los conventos de San Francisco, Monjas de San Bernardo
y Santa Clara, con el hospital de San Lazaro: el convento de San Francisco
mantiene mas de cincuenta Religiosos que enseñan las ciencias escolásticas;
el convento de Santa Clara que está sujeto á ellos, tendrá unas setenta Monjas,
y otras tantas el convento de San Bernardo. El hospital de San Lazaro dentro
de los muros, pero separad'o de la ciudad, sirve para los enfermos elefanciacos
6 dañados que abundan en las islas. Dentro de la ciudad hay once ermitas,
sin contar las que hay sobre los cerros inmediatos. En estos riscos que do-minan
á la ciudad, hay gran número de cuevas y casillas de tierra habitadas
por gente pobre.
El temperamento de esta ciudad es muy benigno, y tan igual, que casi
no se nota diferencia del verano al invierno, bien que la primavera suele ser
opaca por los vientos que llaman brisas pardas, los quales acarrean nublados.
El territorio es muy ameno en huertas y jardines que gozan de un abundante
riego; y se hallan aquí excelentes frutas, carnes, pescados, aves, &. Tiene
paseos amenos: los habitantes son sociables y atentos; pero se nota falta de
comercio, de industria, y de buen gusto en artes y ciencias".
Voyages et aventures des émigrés frqais. París, an VI1 de la Répu-blique.
Págs. 171-172.
"Cette ?le qui est la plus considérable de toutes, a pour capitale, Ciudad
de Palma, la ville des Palmes. Cette ville qui peut avoir une lieue de circuit,
est située au sud-quart-sud-ouest de l'lle, et i une 1ieu.e et demie de la rade.
Le mouillage est tres-bon, pourvu qu'on ne s'approche pas trop de la ville,
dont des rochers cachés sous I'eau rendent I'acch dangereux. Elle est d'éfendue
par un chateau situé sur une montagne; elle est peuplée de douze mille in-sulaires,
riches, bmvec, et disposés repousser ceux qui voudraient les atta-quer.
La plupart des maisons y sont assez bien baties, mais basses, n'ayant
que deux étages. Sa cathédrale est magnifique, les offices et les dignités y
sont en grand nombre. C'est dans cette Ple que siége Ie tribunal de I'inquisi-don,
et le souverain conseil des sept iles. On y compte quatre couvens. On
y t~ouve encore quelques bourgs, tels que Gdder, Tirachana: son port le
plus fr6quent'é se nomme la Luy".
J. G. B. M. BORYD E SAINT-VINCENTE: S S s~ur les Zles Fortunées
et PAntique Atlantide, ou précis de la Histoire générde de l'Ar-chipel
des Canaries. París, 1804. Págs. 207-208.
"La Ciutad de hs Palmas, dont le port s'appelle de la Luz, fait tout le
commerce de Canarie: céest dans cette ville que fut transporté le siége
épiscopal de Rubicon, apres la conquete, et il y est toujours resté, tandis que
le gouverneur des Iles est venu fixer sa demeiire 5 Sainte-Croix de T6zCriffe.
Le revenu du diocese s'éleve 240,000 liv., selon Macartnay. Ce voyageur dit
que le prélat passe pour tres-strict sur l'observation des pratiques religieuses;
mais il est faux que cette rigidité aille au point de ridicule qu'il veut le faire
croire.
La Ciutad de las Palmas peut avoir neuf mille quatre cent trente-sept
habitans; elle est séparée en deux parties par un ruisseau sur lequel était
un pont de bois; elle est assez jolie, mais pleine de couvents. C'est la rési-dence
du tribunal de I'inquisition, et d'un grand Alcalde".
ANDRÉ-PIERREL EDRU: Voyage aux Zles de Ténériffe, la Trinité,
Saint-Thomas et Porto-Ricco. París, 1810. Pág. 38.
"La population de Canarie était, en 1678, de 20,468 habitants; en 1733,
de 50,710; en 1742, de 33,864; en 17868, de 41,082; et en 1790, de 508,000.
On en compte 9;4% dans la capitale nommée Palmas, siége de I'éveché, de
l'audience supérieure, d'un grand alcade, et du tribunal de I'inquisition. Cette
ville a un port dont le mouillage est bon; mais des rochers cachés sous l'eau
en rendent l'acchs dangereux".
LEOPOLD~ O NBU CH: Desmption physique des Iles Canaries. París,
1836. Págs. 14-15.
"A Palmas croit voir dans les premieres maisons et dans les premieres
rues une ville comme Tunis ou Alser. On descend le long de la continuation
de l'aride montagne de Saint-Antoine. Les maisons sont creusées dans le tuf
de cette montagne et on ne les reconnait qu'a des trous de différentes gran-deurs,
qui forment les portes et les fenetres. Viennent ensuite de petits cubes
avec une sede ouverture qui est la porte; eníin Ies maisons syél6vent, mais
elles restent toujours entikrement plates dans le haut et sans toit. M&me 2
Sainte-Croix nous avions encore vue des toits et tout au plus pardessus un
large balcon ou une loggia. Mais 5 Las Palmas rien ne brise les Iignes horí-zontales
des batiments, qui paraissent comme attachées sur les blanches et
arides collines auxquelles elles sont adossées et dont on ne saurait les distin-guer.
Des palmiers s'élevent de tous &tés ainsi que beaucoup d'autres arbres
qui ne rapellent rien des formes européennes; le tamarin y croit en grande
abondance, ainsi que le Canca Papaya; mais ce sont toujours des Espagnols,
et non des Orientaux, qui circulent dans les rues.
Las Palmas est une ville considerable. Elle est plus grande que Yorotava
et que Sainte Croix et presque aussi grande que Laguna. EUe contient 8,096
habitants. Elle est séiparée comme Sévilla en deux parties inégales par le fort
ruisseau de Guinequada. La plus perite, nommée la Vegueta contient la grande
et bdle cathédrale gothique, le palais de Justice, le palais de l'&ví?que et par
sulle toutes les maisons des chanoines, des chapitres et des grands proprié-taires
de l'ik. 11 n'est donc pas étonnant, qu'on y rencontre beaucoup plus
de robes noires et de chap caux en forme de toit, qui sont portés par des
pretres, que dans l'autre partie de la ville la Triana. Dans celle-ci sont
rassembiés ies marchan&, ies artisants et tous ceux, qui doivent travailler
pour gagner leur vie. Comme des iIes, s'é&vent du milieu de cette masse de
maisons, deux couvents de religieuses et un couvent de Franciscains, et sur
la hauteur, tout-2-fait isolé, un voit le chateau del Rey, réuni par une longue
muraille avec le pttit chateau de Casa Mata, qui Iui meme se rattache de la
meme manikre au chateau de Sainte-Anne sur le bord de la mer".
P. B. WEBB y S. BERTHELOT: Histoire Naturelle des Zles Cmaries,
tomo 1, parte 2." (Miscellanées Canariennes). París, 1839. Págs.
200-208.
"A peine débarqués sur la plage de la Isleta, nous nous disposions 2
chercher un gite en attendant des betes de charge pour faire transporter nos
effets, lorsqu'on vint nous offrir 5 déjefiner de la part d'une dame canarienne
que nous ne connaissions ni l'un ni Sautre. Doña Marin Candelaria, qui nous
faisait cette invitation, résidait alors dans le voisinage pour jouir de l'air de
la mer: vieille fille de joviale humeur, elle conservait encore, malgré ses
soixante ans, toute la vivacité de la jeunesse. Toujours ievée avant I'aurore,
et cherchant des distractions sur cette plage oh nous abordames, elle avait
apercu notrs barque se dirigeant dans la baie. De la maison qu'elle habitait
h quelques pas du rivage, elle nous vit sauter 5 terre avec tout l'attirail de
campagne. Notre tournure étrangkre, nos armes de chasse, nos ustensiies de
peche, les grands coffres qui renfermaient nos collections exciterent sa curio-sité:
elle envoya aussit6t aux informations et fit jaser un passager qui nous
avait connus 2 Fortaventure; aussi, lorsque nous nous acheminames vers sa
demeure pour nous rendre 5 son invitation, Doña Maria savait déjh toute
notre histoire; nos caravanes dans les iles voisines, la bourrasque de la nuit,
les notifs de notre arrivée et les projets que nous méditions encore. «Vous
wdevez &re bien fatigués de la tourmente, nous dit-elle, veuillez accepter ces
wrestaurans, et surtout point de facon, car vous ne trouverez rien autre chose
»le long de cette c6te. En vous faisant servir h déjefiner, je ne devance que
»de quelques instans l'hospitalité que vous auriez été forcés de me demander
»plus tard, car la ville est h une lieue d'ici et les chameaux que doivent
»transporter vos effets n'arriveront pas avant une heurew. Nous acceptames
ce repas offert de si bon coeur: Doña M'aria prit place 5 nos c6tés, la conver-sation
s'engagea aussitot avec la plus grande conñance, et avant de quitt.er
la table nous avions déjh conquis son affection. «J1aime les étrangers, nous
wdisait-elle; je me suis postée sur cette plage pour arrGter tous ceux qui
»arrivent et leur Gtre utile au beson. Zes deux tiers de ma vie ont été em-
»ployés & ramasser des piastres; aujourd'hui, je dépense en distraction mon
»temps et ma fortune. Cette existence indépendante m'a semblé préférable
w2 la société d'un mari. Te campe un peu partout, tan& dans la campagne,
wtant6t sur le bord de la merw. En effet, Doña Maria vivait en nomade,
changeant de demeure h volonté; son esprit, sa gaité et la franchise de ses
manieres lui avaient fait de nombreux amis; aussi sa recommandation nous
fut-elle trh-utile lorsque nous parcourtimes l'ile. Mais il ne s'agit encore que
de notre preniiere entrene; n'anticipons pas.
Les chameaux venaient d'arriver et nous primes congé de notre aimable
h6tesw en Ia remerciant mille fois de son bon accueil. «Les gens accoutumés
»a courir le monde, nous dit-elle en riant, ne sont pas difficiles sur le gite
»qui l a r est offert. Mais a propos, nous n'avons dans notre cité de las Palmas
»qii'une méchante auberge je connai la mitressi de re Ingis, et jkspsre
»qu'& ma prikre elle vous traitera de son mieux. Tio PEedro! ajouta-t-elle en
ws'adressant 5 notre charnelier, venez prendre le billet que je vais écrire
spendant que ces messieurs font charger leur bagage. Vous les conduirez 2
wl'endroit que je vous dkignerai». Tio Pedro obéit; et un quart-d'heure
aprh nous étions en route.
Tandis que nous cheminions le Iong de l'isthme qui joint la Isleta 5 la
grande Canarie, je réñéchissais sur notre bonne fortune. 11 y avait quelque
chose de providentiel dans les événemens qui s'étaient succédé depuis notre
départ de Tarajd: une barque, chargée comme l'archa du déluge, s'aventurant
au milieu d'une nuit orageuse, une tourmente 5 faire crier merci, et pourtant
nous étions débarqués sains et saufs sur la plage hospitaliere. Deux heures
s'étaient 5 peine écoulées depuis notre arrivée 5 terre et déja nous avions
rencontré une amie. Nous venions de franchir la porte de Sainte-Anne et
pénétrioq dans une ville populeuse, bien batie, ornée de maisons élégantes
et d'édifices somptueux. Tout cela me semblait un enchantement. Les voyages
maritimes peuvent seuls produire ces brusques transitions dans les scenes
de la vie, ce passage subit d'une périlleuse existente au solide bien-etre,
car la confiance qu'inspire la terre s'accroit encore au souvenir des dangers
de la mer. La veille, dans cette baie o t ~no tre barque s'était abritée un instant,
nous avions eu sous les yeux l'image du désert, maintenant c'était le spectacle
de la civilisation. Un calme plat avait cuccédé 5 la bourrasque, le ciel billait
gun u<f et iioüs traversior,s la des PallderS qU9éc:aii.ait déjj'a .un 2
N
soleil radieux, lorsque notre guide s'arreta devant une maison qu'il nous E
désigna comme I'endroit oii nous devions loger. Une jeune personne fort
avenante recut la lettre de D o h Maria, et apSs en avoir pris lecture: n -
«La maitresse du lagis est 5 la campagne pour quelques jours, nous dit-elle>
»mais je suis chargée pendant son absence de recevoir les étrangers. Vous E o
»ne pouviez, messieurs, vous présenter ici avec une meilleure recommanda-
»tion; Dovía Maria sera satisfaite~. Puis, apres ce premier début, elle nous E
invita 5 passer au salon et nous signala nos chambres 5 coucher, que nous % trouviimes fort propres et meublées avec élégance. La maison nous parut 5
tr&-confortable; la salk 5 manger surtout était d'une propreté rare dans une %-
auberge. Nous nous informames des heures des repas afin de régler notre B
temps. con prendra vos ordres, nous répondit l'aimable introductrice, nous
~n'avons pas d'autres voyageurs. - A merveille! dans ce cas, puisque nous :
»ne genons personne, nous reprendrons les usages de la mere-patrie: déjefiner
»a onze heures et diner 2 six. - Ce sera selon vos désirs». On ne pouvait y
mettre plus de complaisance: elle était si bonne, Patrocinita. -
a
11 y avait trois jours que nous étions installés dans notre nouveau domi-cile,
usant largement des commodités du logis, lorsque le chamelier qui nous
avait conduits et que nous rencontrames dans la rue vint détruire nos ilIusions.
Ce brave homme nous annonca la prochaine arrivée de Doña Masa. «Elle
»décampe ce soir, nous dit-il; les pecheurs du port en sont bien fachés, car
,elle ne marchande pas et fait acheter tout ce qu'il y a de mieux. Ce sont
»des cadeaux pour ses amis, et vous en recevez la meiiieure part. - Comment,
»cette excellente marée que tu nous apportes, c'est Doña Maria qui nous
»l'envois? - Et sans doute, il est bien juste que sa maison soit pourvue la
»premiere. - Sa maison! Nous ne sommes donc pas i l'auberge? - Bah!
»a i'auberge, il n'en existe pas dans la ville. Vos seigneuries sont chez Doña
Mana». Nous ne revenions pas de notre étonnement; la plaisanterie était
délicieuse; mais pourtant, une fois désabusés sur le gite que notre gracieuse
h6teise nous avait procuré par surprise. nous devions chercher 5 nous loger
ailleurs. Notre position devenait fort embarrassante, et nous retournames au
logis pour nous concerter sur le parti qu'il nous restait 2 prendre. Nouvelle
surprise! Doña Maria venait d'arriber. Elle nous aborda d'un air riant:
«Eh bien! mes amis, comment vous trouvez-vous ici, nous dit-elle? Vous
»traite-t-on convenablement, l'auberge fait-elle pour vous? Patrocinita, en
»l'absence de sa maitresse, a-t-elle rempli son devoir? - Oui, madame, nous
»ne pouvions trouver un meilleur gite et surtout plus de prévenance et
»d'attention; vous avez été au-dela de nos désirs, et votre demoiselle de
»compagnie a parfaitement j,oué son d e » . A cette réponse inattendue Doña
Maria se pinca les Ievres : «Allons, je le vois bien, on m'a vendue.. . quelque
aindiscret.. . quelque jaloux peut-&re; mais vous me pardonnerez ma petite
»ruse, ajouta-t-elle en minaurant. Attirer chez soi deux hommes a leur insu,
aj'en conviens, c'est tres-hardi pour une vieille Mle. N'allez pas ébruiter cette
»affaire, au moins; vous me perdriez; c'est comme un rapt ... le corrégidor
d e n formaliserait». Puis, partant d'un grand éclat de rire: «Oh! c'est im-
»payable l'idée que j'ai eue 12, continua-t-elle. Eh bien donc, vous etes s&rieux,
»vous me boudez ... Auriez-vous le projet de me quitter si vite? Me feriez-
»vous l'affronta d'aller acepter l'hospitalité d'un autre, car dans ce pays vous
,,,,7377nw ",,* -*++m vn""n..,.,.* 1: fq.7,. A-,,. -,%-te.. :e: -.. :-,...A ..e..- v.-..,. I l l l Y I b Y YUb +>-Lb I b U U W U l b b . LCLUC U V I I b I i b J C b I Ibl, pUAO\IUC V V L D V U U J y
~t rouvezb ien. Vous le voyez, ma maison est assez vaste pour nous contenir
»tous; vous ne me genez en rien. Agissez donc sans facon. Fatrocinita aura
»soin de votre ménage; vous vous entendrez avec elle et je vous laisserai
»enti&rement libres. Allons, vous acceptez, n'est-ce pas? Tout est dit, c'est
»affaire conclue,. Comment résister a une offre aussi obligeante: la maison
nous allait si bien! Doña Maria nous avait gates. .. nous acceptsmes, et bien
nous en fut. Je ne saurais assez faire i'éloge de cette excellente femme: pen-dant
les trois mois que nous pas shes d a n ~l'i le, elle eut pour nous les soins
d'une mere: l'intérgt qu'elle nous témoigna, la bonté de son coeur, sa franche
amitié, ses attentions si délicates et si désintéressées, nous retremperent a
toutes les affections qui font le charme de la vie.
Nos projets d'excursions dans l'intérieur de l'ile restkrent ajournés jusqu'a
nouvel ordre: la Ciutad de las Palmas, comme capitales de la grande Canarie,
méritait d'etre visitée en détail; sa population s'élkve 2 prks de douze mille
ames. Un beau pont de pierre, qu'on a construit sur le ravin de Giniguada,
unit les deux faubourgs; d'une part, celui de Triana, que le commerce vivifie;
de l'autre, la Vegueta, oU priment le haut clergé, la magistrature et l'autorité
militaire. Parmi les édifices qui décorent cette partie de la cité, on en
remarque un d'un aspect triste et sévkre: les laves noires qu'on a employées
2 sa construction jettent sur ses murailles une teinte lugubre. C'est la que
siégeait autrefois l'inquisition. Le redoutable tribunal s'était logk c6té du
collége, sans doute pour surveiller i'enseignement et le diriger 2 son gré.
En r1uQv3vA, Al,v,rrucy "u r. .Llnnb O"TJ,"O+LAb,, U A b ~,,,,+W;c..+l :l J L ~ L U LaI-V-l-l l 1l S .Vl.: -lAl l L l-G^-I-l.V^G-^I^C-> C l l1- ..- -V: -l: 1C1l- -I I O I:-I.lLb. L I -
tutions, a la premiere nouvelle de l'événement, les étudians montkrent au
clocher de la chapelle qui domine la cour du Saint-Office et sonnerent le
glas des morts. C'était au miliceu de la nuit: les habitans du quartier de la
Vegueta, réveillés en sursaut aux coups redoublés du sinistre tocsin, croient
qu'un incendie les menace et accourent vers le lieu qui donne l'alarme.
«Ce n'est rien, leur crient des fenetres du clocher les malins jeunes gens,
xdrnez votre effroi et réjouissez vous; la voisine est morte!' Nous sonnons
»pour son enterrement. Vive la constitution!».
La cathédrale est un monument digne de sa renommée: l'architecture
extérieure ressemble beaucoup 2 celle de l'église de Saint-Sulpice de Paris;
son aspects est pas moins imposant. On a remplacé I'ancienne facade par
une autre de nouvelle construction, d'aprh les dessins de Don Diego Eduardo,
architecte canarien du plus grand mérite; elle a prk de cent quatre-vingts
pieds de développement. Le corps de l'édifice date de 1500: l'intérieur, d'un
beau gothique, offre trois grandes nefs en longueur et quatre transversales,
avec onze chapelles dans les alentours. Des groupes de coIonnes du plus be1
effet soutiennent la vofite; le chueur, le ame, le maitre-autel, la chaire, tout
est magnifique et grandiose dans cette cathédrale. Parmi les riches ornemens
qui la décorent, on remarque une lampe d'argent du poids de cinq cents
marcs.
Le poete Cayrasco, mort en 1610, repose dans la chapelle de Sainte-
Catherine, qu'il fit batir k ses frais : on lit sur son tombeau l'kpitaphe suivante :
Lyricen et oates toto celebratus in orbe
H k jacet indlusus, nomine ad astra voldns.
Le chanoine Viera est enseveli au-dessous du maitre autel, dans les
caveaux du panthéon des grands dignitaires de la cathédrale. J'ai déjk cité
bien des fois cet illustre Isleño, non moins recommandable par son ardent
Ziatl-io'&lTle par b -"-ari& de ses corlrI~ssarlces et la s&&é de son 2
N jugement. E
J'aimais k parcouris de nouveau cette vaste cathédrale que j'avais visitée
cinq ans auparavant dans une premikre excursion k Canaria. La cérémonie O
n -
de la bénédiction des Palmes que j'y avais vu célébrer ne s'était pas effacée
de mon souvenir. L'intérieur du temple présentait l'aspect le plus pittores- E
que: le sol était jonché de verdure; des branches de lauriers d'Inde et de E
2
genEts, mElées k d'autres plantes arümatiques, exhalaient les plus suaves E
parfums. Les Canariennes étalaient ce jourlk toute leur parure. Que de doux
-
regards on saisissait sous leurs élégantes mantilla! Les éventails aux 3
paillettes d'or vibraient dans leurs mains avec une rapidité merveilleuse; -
ce jeu varié et soutenu était toujours accompagné de gracieux sourires: on -
0
m
eilt dit un essaim d'oi seaux de paradis, aux ailes diaprées, voltigeant sous E
un ciel de feu. C'était un ravissant tableau de belles femmes et de belles O
fleurs au milieu d'une illumination éclatante et d'une atmosphkre embaumée.
Les palmes, qu'on agitait de toute part, produisaient un fr6missement n
harmonieux: portes en grande pompe aux accords de la musique et des k
chants sacrés, ces superbes rameaux donnaient k la fete I'apparence d'un l
triomphe. n
Le faubourg de la Vegueta contient plusieurs autres édifices remar-quables:
trois monasthres, un h6pital et l'ancien collége de jésuites. Le =
tribunal de I'Audience royale et les prisons font face k la cathédrale, et non O
loin de 15, sur la pIace que décore une fontaine publique, s'&ve le palais
&jsrqal fondP en 157X par I'évSque Don Christoval de la Vela; at rP&&fi&
trente ans aprh l'invasion des Hollandais par un de ses plus illustres suc-cesseurs,
Don Christoval de la Cámara".
CH. PH. DE I(ERHALLET: Madere, les Zles Salvages et les ZEes Cana-ries.
Edición de 1868. París. Págs. 77 y 80-81.
"Baie de Palmas, port de la Luz. - La rade de Palmas se divide en
quatre parties: le port de la Luz qui est l'espace compris entre la pointe
sur laquelle est le fort de la Luz et celle oii l'on voit le fort Santa Catalina;
prh et A SE. du fort de la Luz, on voit le lazaret, puis le village de la Luz,
sur la c6te Nord du port. Sous la pointe Sud, oh git la maison des douaniers,
en ruine, il y a quelques rochers. Un bon chemin conduit maintenant de la
Luz A Palmas.
La vilte de Palmas, qui renferme 14,360 habitants, est batie sur les
bords d'un ravin d~élicieux, le Guinigada, qui porte dans la baie les eaux
des hautes terres; simple ruisseau dans la belle saison, il devient quelquefois
un torrent redoutable dans celle des pluies; aussi Ya-t-on, pour prévenir
les inondations en hiver, contenu au moyen de hautes murailles; ce ravin
divise la ville en deux parties réunies par un beau pont de trois arches et
large de 18 metres. On reconnait de loin Palmas 5 ses murailles blanches,
puis A la citadelle nommée Plateforme et située a la partie Nord sur la
colline San Francisco. Ce fort est une défense du fort del Rey qui est un
peu plus loin sur une espIanade de la d m e montagne.
Palmas est batie sur la plage meme, et, du large, elle semble sortir des
PZUX. Elle es!: ent~ur é ed e c ~mp ~ g n efesr tiles, qui donntnt trois r é c~l t t s
par an, et d'une vdlée plantée en palmiers et arbres fruitiers. On y trouve
un théatre, un marché, deux hopitaux, dont un pour les malades atteints
d'éléphantiasis, maladie tres-comrnune dans 1'iIe. Palmas a été la capitale
des ?les Canaries de 1483 A 1833, époque oh elle a été remplacée par Sainte-
Croix.
Ressources. - On trouve a Palmas, et A tres-bon marché, des vivres
frais, des légumes, des fruits de toute espece, de l'eau de tres-bonne qualité,
dont il existe sur le mole un dépot permanent appartenant a une compagnie
particuliere; elle est de 1A amenée par un conduit A l'extrémité du mole
oii on peut la faire facilement avec les embarcations. On y trouve aussi
des vins au moins égaux sinon supérieurs 2 ceux de Ténérife, oU, du reste,
vu le peu de relations qui existent Palmas d'ordinaire, ils sont transportés
par le cabotage ainsi que le poisson salé. On construit des navires de 30
A 400 tonneaux a Palmas. Les matériaux sont fournis par l'ile meme. Lobo
dit qu'on en a construit 123 de 1819 A 1859, et qu'en 1859, i1 est entré 2
Palmas 164 navires jaugeant ensemble 24,324 tonneaux".
THOMADS EBARYN: otes of a residence in the Canary Zslands, the
south of Spain, rmd Algiers; ilustrative of the state of religion
in those countries. Londres, 1851. Págs. 81-92.
"At two o'clock the following morning, we anchored off the Isleta, and
at daylight, on ascending the deck, 1 found a somewhat dreary prospect.
The Isleta is so called not because it is actually an island, but because it
seems as if it ought to be one; it is joined to the main land by what is litrle
better than a sand bank. Along which we had to plough our way to the
principal city of the island; «Las Palmas».
The appearance of the city is peculiar as you enter it; the houses are
low, flat-topped, and with such enormous gurgoils to carry off the rain,
that the street has more the appearance of a fort, bristling with cannon,
than any thing else. The poor part of the population live in houses cut
from the sandstone hill that overhangs the city.
The town of Las Palmas has a population of about 10,000; it is built on
either side of a ravine which divides it, in the bottom of which flows a
narrow stream, spanned by rather an elegant bridge, built by a former
bishop of the place. On looking up the ravine from the bridge, you see
many palm trees, and the whole prospect is crowned by the pale blue Pexos
ridge of mountains which are 6500 feet high. The valley itself is exceedingly
fertile, and is so well irrigated, that it produces two crops of Indian corn
in the year besides a crop of potatws.
The town is well built, and there remain many of the original houses
built by the first conquerors and settlers in the islaild. The chief building is
the cathedral of St. Anne. It is important enough to have called for par-ticular
notice in a European country. The style is Romanesque. It has two
towers and a centre cupola. The interior, however. that which recommends
it to one's notice, on account of the very lofty and spiral character of the
piers. It is said that the architect was an Irish priest, and that he selected
a species of pumice stone for the purpose of buiIding the roof; but the
workmen empioyed on rhe building considered rhe piers s o unequai so bear N2
an ordinary roof upon them, that they threw dow their tools and refused E
to work, whereupon the Irish priest took a chair and set hirnself underneath O where they were at work, that his own head might suffer, if the columns n should prove unequal to bear the roof he was going to place upon them. -
m
The windows are of stained glass, but without any design in them. When O
E
Canary was the only see in the province, it was a very wealthy one, and E
2
even now it bears the character of being one of those lucrative banishments E
where men who are afterwards to be preferred to the great cathedrals of
-
Spain, are nct unseldom sent to scrape together a Iittle money. 3
The most important edifice after the cathedral is built upon the site of --
the suppressed convent of Santa Clara, and comprises a reading-room, 0
m
coffee-room, ball-room, and theatre: into this club-house, as it is, our E
consul introduced me, whre il found plenty of French and Spanish papers, O
but very few books. A library of modern books 1 should think was a thing
quite unknown in Spain. n
E On the north side of this building 1s the Alemada, laid out with some -
a
pretensions, and thronged every evening with the ladies of the place, and l
the cock-fighting gentlemen of the two islands. n
n
The valley in which the town is built separates a little higher up, into
two narrower ones affording exceedingly pretty walks and rides. To the 2 south of the town between the high land and the sea, stretches a tract of
fertile well irrigated land about a mile in breadth. The method adopted in
irrigating is said ro 'E of Moodn urigin, arid irum i b d~lhquiíy 1 shouid
think it probably was. The furrows are ploughed in semicircles, so as to
lead into each other; the top furrow is called the «madre», or mother, and
the water being turned into this, runs through al1 the others in the piece
o£ ground which is under cultivation.
The climate of Las Palmas is quite different from that of Santa Cruz.
ReguIarly about ten o'clock, although the sky has been clear before, a
sea-cloud comes up from the East, and tempers the rays of the sun with
moisture, so that geraniums and succulent plants generally will flourish
here, which will not at Santa Cruz. The number of rainy days at Las Palmas
greatly exceeds the number of Santa Cruz, and even that of Funchal in
Madeira. Thus, the number of rainy days in Santa Cruz is under forty, at
Las Palmas under eighty, at Madeira about seventy, and at Fuertaventura,
as 1 have been told, it hardly ever rains at all. Al1 this variety of climate
is produced by the accidental position of these islands with respect to the
ordinary course of the «trade winds».
It was the season of Lent during my stay at Las Palmas; the town was
accordingly kept alive by matters of ecclesiastical interest, as well as by the
approaching struggle between the «gallos Ingleses» of the two islands of
Teneriffe and Gran Canaria. The bishop had been newly appointed to the
s e , and had just arrived from the Spanish peninsula, evidently with no
very high opinion of the state .of his diocese, or the acquirements of the
people he had come to Iive amongst. Hawever, the Canarians have some
very fair collegiate establishments, and are a lively and intelligent people;
and he used to address them, as they complained, in too puerile terms; and
in their turn they laughed at him for his pronunciation, because he w2s
L-" l.:-*L - c - L - l - - : - - ,,.L.- UY UULU a L ~ LCL IUI I I ~ I I1.1 1;b -~- - -a it, mu si De admiried, as i i írishmen shouid m
D laugh at a Scotchman for his pronunciation of English; but it is likewise
a lesson to those preachers who are fond o£ condescending to the understan- E
ding d their congregaticmi, and in order to do so frequently say very O
n trifling things; however, the bishop's zeai was praiseworthy, and much needed -
=m
by these islanders. One day an English trader came and said to me, «The O
E
bishop has been preaching and giving the people a considerable trimming, E
telling them they might take example even by the heretical English, who, 2
E
though not in the Catholic faith, surpassed the Spaniards in pie@». =
The bishop with some justice preached against cock-fighting on Sundays 3
in Lent. Every evening he preached, making the circuit of the churches -
with his chaplain, whom they called «el missionario», and who always -
0m
occupied the pulpit immediately after the bishop. He was a more eloquent E
and impassioned man than the bishop, and preached more according to the O
prescribed rules of Spanish preaching; for the Spanish preacher receives
minute directions upon things we never think abwt. n
He is instructed in his whole carriage in the pulpit; for instance, he is E a-told
how he should hold his body: it should be upright, but not so much l
so, or so irnmoveably, as to give it the appearance of being stuck up. The n
chest should be slightly inclined forward, especially when the preacher 0
aipostrophises the people. «Nunca volverá la espalda al sacramento», the 3
back or shoulder should never be turned to the sacrament; since that is O
the same as if a preacher should turn his back on the Deity. Neither should
he resi hk elbüws oíi the ciwliiüil üf tiie puipií, riur turn himseif from this
side to that «con demasiada viveza», -in too great a hurry, but with ease
and dignity. His head ought to be «erguida pero sin orgullo», -erect, but
without hauteur; and turn on its axis «lento y suave», -softIy and sweetly.
His eyes are to look down on thc congregation with modesty, and not to be
fixed at one point, but to wander «indistintamente sobre todo el auditorio»,
-without distinguishing individuals over the whole congregation. The eye-brows
are never to be raised completely to the roots of the hair; «ni la
una ni ia otra», -nor by any accident one without the other. A smile
should never appear on his lips, albeit d a alegría de los santos» -the joy
of the saints, is not to be concealed when occasion calls for it.
The bishop sometimes preached from the balcony of his palace; a purple
cloth was thrown over the rails, and his crozier fixed in one corner. It was
both amusing and instructive to me to observe the contending principies
at work, and to be a wholly impartial spectator of what I'know to be going
on in every part of the world, -«the Church and the worldrid». The world
coldly criticising the efforts of the Church. The bishop strove to arouse
the apathetic; he gave out that the processions were to be in full force the
ensuing Passion Week. But how did my friends generally regard it? they
used to stroll into church of an evening for a few minutes, and then come
out, pronounce him a Catalonian, and begin to talk of their cock-fights.
1 determined to pay the suppressed convent of the Augustines, in which
these exhibitions were held, the visit, and see the sort of company that
frequented them. 1 am not one of those Protestants sho could rejoice to
see a convent perverted to these uses, and it was not without repugnante
on this score as well as others that 1 directed my footsteps on the place.
When 1 entered the ancient cloisters, the silence was as profound as in those
days when the building was in the occupation of men under religious vows;
not that i t was empty, but on the contrary, very iuii. i n rhe «pa.ario>>o, r
quadrangle, tiers of seats were raised up round a sort of large cage, and
t h s e seats were crowded with attentive spectators; in the upper corridors
or cloisters 1 noticed some of the c!ergy and princrpal civil and military
officers of the place. 1 mounted up here just in time to see the conclusion
of one of the fights; the two unfortunate birds were soarcely able to peck
at each oter any longer; one just contrived to drive the other a few paces
on, and then both stood still, as inanimate as if they had been stuffed,
excepting that pools of blood began to form under the respective dirds.
This was a signal for the backers to enter the cage, smooth the feathers,
and try and stimulate their fighting propensities. The poor spent creatures
made one or two more fluttering efforts at contention, and then fe11 back
lifeless. When 1 noticed their feathers quivering, 1 felt disgusted, but di-rectly
a new and lively couple were thrown into the cage, ana began to
stwt round and crow for the combat, the interest revived, so it was time
to leave this demoralising exhibition.
The convent of the Augustines was doomed to a double profanaticn;
for, a week after this, an awning was spread over the patio, and the Ameri-can
horses were exhibiting.
1 well remember this circumstance, because 1 made acquaintance with
the mate of the American bark in rather a singular manner; the first Sunday
that 1 was in the island, 1 found there were too many prejudices to be
overcome, to assemble the few English people, who had banished themselves
here, for purposes of worship; 1 thereiore, as a thing most in accordance
with my feelings, entered the cathedral; and after gazing with wonder for
some time at the gigantic representation of St. Christoval, the ferryman,
bearing the infant Jesus on his shoulders, a figure found in mcst Spanish
cathedrals, 1 passed into the cloisters. The solitude of a cloister is, to a
church lover, the most agreeable one can imagine. Be he where he may in
Christendom, he may, in imagination, be speedily transported to the cloisters
of some favourite church in his own country. Nothing could be more agreeable
than these cloisters. The delicious atmosphere, the splashing of water in
the middle fountain, and the train of agreeable associations surnmoned to
one's mind by the character of the building: but my reverie dit not last
long; the sacristan made his appearance, and bade me depmt; somewhat
chagrined, 1 returned to the Fonda to read the offices.
As 1 entered the principal room or Sala, 1 saw, through an open door,
a hot bath emitthg steam, and the head of a man hanging over the side of
it; his features bespoke an utter absence of moral culture; seeing me, he
addressed me in English, and when 1 asked hn who he was he replied,
aThe mate of the American bark*. 1 coud not help remarking what a
miserable existente he was leading; and asking him if he knew this was
Sunday, be said, <No; Sundays and other days were al1 the same to him,.
1 then expressed my wonder how this extraordinary speculation could pay".
ELIZABETMH URRAYS: ixteen years of an artist's life in Morocco,
Spain, and tize Canary Zslands. Londres, 1859. Volumen 11, págs.
i7ü-i8i.
"La Real Ciudad de las Palmas, the capital of Grand Canary, is rather
a gloomy and uninteresting city. It has a ruined appearance, and the at-mosphere
is so heavy in its close and narrow streets that the visitor can
with difíiculty resist the inflruence of the melancholy feelings which such a
place is calculated to inspire. The town is pretty extensive, but very silent,
with little animation in its almost deserted streets. The houses are flatroofed,
looking as if the top-floor had fallen off. The appearance of most of them
is very mean, but here and there a more lofty and handsome one, with
some pretensions even to architectural decoration, stands up in solitary
importante. Some of the old public buildings and houses look imposing
enough, compared with the pigmy structures by which they are surrounded;
and a few of the streets have considerable pretensions to beauty, but they
are so interspersed with ruined houses and heaps of building-materials, that
they look as if they had only recently suffered from a severe earthquake.
One thing, however, may fairly be said in favour of this ancient town.
Its inhabitants are exceedingiy kind and agreeable to strangers, -at Ieast,
such was our experience. Al1 whom we had the pleasure of meeting we
found so courteous and hospitable, that we becme reconciled even to the
dilapidation of which we had so often occasion to be witnesses. As too
much ceremony would be a great dralwback in these sultry climates, we
dways were happy to meet persons who could receive us without formality,
anci whose free and easy Kindness soon made us fed as comforrabk as in
our own home. Another tropical pleasure is that of being thoroughly idle.
When the sun is parching the earth with a degree of heat of which the
untravelled inhabitants of England, fortunately, have no conception, one
dmrly loves to dawdle about in his own way, to stand, or sit, or sleep, or
wake, as he pleases. On these sultry days, the very camels even, with that
strange zig-zag movement which is peculiar to them, move about unheeded,
going slow or fast, or not going at all, at their own pleasure. The very
donkeys may take liberties with you, receiving no admonitory rebuke from
the heavy stick that hans idly in your hand. People lie asleep in their
houses during the heat of the day, for there is little astir until the cool
breath of evening is felt, when the Señoritas begin to moe, and having
arranged their light toilet, appear in al1 their bloom and beauty on the
Alameda. The Spanish gentlemen are there too; but they, having Iighted
their cigars, are conversing with the cock-fighting gentleman who has come
over from Teneriffe to provide them with an opportunity of witnessing their
favourite sport. Bull-fighting was never more popular in Spain than cock-fighting
is in the Grand Canary.
Some distance beyond the Alameda, there is a very beautiful view of
Las Palmas as it stands on the ravine on both sides of which its streets
are erected. There is something peculiary foreign in the aspect of the town,
viewed from this position. In winter, a mountain stream flows down the
ravine, which is spanned by a very elegant bridge built by one of its former
bishops. The houses, which in this direction are some of the best in the
town, are beautifully interspersed with orange and palm trees. Crowds of
women come to wash in the stream which flows down the Barranco. On
one side of the ravine the Cathedral of St. Anne is erected. Though un-finished,
it is a remarkably fine, and even noblelooking, building. On the
other side ,mrnay be ebSer~,yz a= aqpkitheatre of caies, se;"ue =f *.7'-;-'. ." 111L11,
doubtless, once afforded refuge to the aborigines, while others are the work
of more recent times. The poorer part of the inhabitants, who, Iike their
Guanche predacessors, are still a semi-troglodite race, inhabit these not
very choice abodes. In the distance the blue range of the Pexas Mountains
may be obsemed crowning the landscape. Altogether, the view is at once
unique and charrning.
The great lion of Las Palmas is its cathedral, of which the inhabitants
may well be proud. In the glorious days of Isabella the Catholic, when the
genius of Spain was attaining to its greatest ascendency, the Spanish archi-tect,
Don Diego Montande, laid the foundations of this magnificent church.
It was fortunately built and consecrated before a taste had arisen for a
style of architecture that was inconsistent with the canons and requirements
of Christian art. The architect, Montaude, is said to have received only
forty maravedis daily for his work, a sum equal to about ninepence, English
money, in the eighteenth century. However, the biihopric being possessed
of immense revenues, the Bishop and Chapter determined to reconstruct
and finish the cathedral. Although, therefore, the first architect deserves
al1 the honour for having designed so magnificent a building, it was prin-cipally
erected by an architect who, though a native of Laguna in Teneriffe,
yet claimed British origin. His name was Don Diego Nicholas Eduardo,
the descendant of a family which, in company with many others in similar
circumtances, carne from Ireland at the time of the rebellion in that country,
2nd te& ref3ge in the Caxry Isl~nds. So this day, in these isluuds and i:
Spain, there is many a Murphy, O'Donnell, and Callaghan, names which
clearly show whence they have sprung, aithough the nationality of the
indmividuals bearing them is now changed. It is said that Eduardo built the
roof of the cathedral of so light a pumice that the workmen, considering it
unsafe, refused to continue the work. The only way in which he could
inspire them with confidence was by sitting under the roof himself, while
they were engaged in working at the building. By this means their courage
-w.ea-a 2-+-.-i c a c u i c u A-.a i iu ALILIC- -W---Y-U L K p--i- u---~--i -~ 2 c u .
The church, as it now stands, is composed of a nave with double aisles,
the side aisles forming chapels. The piers also are very lofty and elegant,
partaking in some measure ,of the form of the palm-tree. They are thus quite
characteristic of the city in which the cathedral is built. This fact suggests
a question well worthy of some consideration. Why should not the indige-nous
flora of this, or of any other country, be adapted to the architecture
of its edifices? The Egyptians availed themselves of their own lotus. The
Greeks learned a lesson from their native acanthus. The natives of Palestine
obtained suggestions from the pomegranate and lily. And in the case of
these islands, what could be more appropriate to the ornamentation of the
houses in the Canaries than their own stately and massive banana and
vigorous aloe, to which a contrast, at once so striking and beautiful, could
be obtained in the elegant fern or the euphorbia? Would not the intro-duction
of forms suggested by these trees, plants, and flowers, while in-troducing
something original, with preater variety, into architecture, be at
the same time more consistent than the perpetua1 use of the Greek ho-neysuckle
or other classicaI decorations, without regard to the character and
traditions of the people or the natural features of the place?
The sacristy of the cathedral has a very remarkable stone floor. It is
shown t.0 visitors as a perfect marvel, and seems completely to puzzle the
priest who exhibits it. It is a square of some five-and-iwenty feet, and, as
there is no support but the side walls (for he takes the visitor down into
the chamber beneath to look), the supposed wonder that requires to be
explained is the manner in which it is supported. The celebrated English
engineer, Mi-. Stephenson, happened to be one of our party on the occasion
of this visit to the cathedral. As what was such a mystery to the priest
was noae to him, he excited the great surprise of the former by explaining
to him on paper the principie on which the floor was built, namely, that,
being in the form of an arch, it required only the outer wdb, which were
very thick, tcr support it. The worthy padre did not appear quite to relish
the idea of so simple an explanation of what had al1 his life been such a
marvel to him, and it is doubtful whether any reason or argument would
have satisfied him of its correcbness.
Altogether, the interior of the cathedral is very grand. Its appearaace
would be much more imposing, if it were not for the coro, which destroys
the general effect by cutting s p the nave. From the style of its architecture,
also, it appears to be quite out of keeping with the other parts of the
building. The lectern, or reading-desk, is said to be a relic from old
St. Paul's cathedral.
In the Capilla Mayor a very massive silver lamp is suspended. It is made
of filigree silver, the workmamhip of Genoese artists, and is said to have
,been preseated to the church by Cardinal Zimenes in 1,690. The altar and
credence-table are ver,y magnificent, being f o~me do f beaten silver. The former
is decorated with three larye sdvers, besides the immense paschal candle,
nearly a foot in diameter, and about fifteen feet in height, which is placed
on the northern side. A fine canopy of rich crimson velvet adorns the high
altar.
In accordance with the religious policy of the times, Pope Clement VI,
in 1544, took advantage of aii the discoveries that were then made to pro-pagate
the Roman Catholic faith. He accordiagly claimed spiritual dorninion
over the Canary Islands. The Norman cavalier, John d,e Betancourt, who un-dertook
the conquest of Canary, had two chaplains with him, John le Verrier
and Peter Bontier, who were very zealous in the extension of their faith.
Their success in the conversion of the Guanches alrnost equalled their
unwearying zeal. In the year 1404, they built a church in the island of Lan-zarote,
naming it the Church of San Marcial. By a bu11 of Pope Eenedict XIII,
it was converted into a cathedral see, suffragan of Seville. Fo Mendo de
Viednia, after some contention, was recognized by the Council of Constante,
and is generally considered the first bishop of the see of San Marcial in
Lanzarote. Subsequently, in 1435, a bu11 was obtained from Eugenius N,
authorising the translation of the see to Grand Canary, as being a place of
greater importante. In November, 1485, eight years after the complete subju-gation
of the island, thk translation was effected, the then newly-erected
cathedral being at the same time dedicated to St. Anne.
The present church was built in the year 1500. It was commenced during
the episcopate o£ F. Diego de Moros, dean of Santiago, and third bishop o£
Las Palmas, one of the most vident opponmts of Luther and the doctrines
of the Reformation. The first sacred offices weres celebrated in it on the eve
of Corpus Christi, 1570. It is supposed not to occupy the same site as the
o 2
first church. N
E The Inquisition was established in the Canary Islands soon after the
conquest, a circumstance to which we may attribute, at least in part, the loss
of the Guanche language, the rnatives not daring tospeak i t in public, from -- m
the fear of being misunderstood, or of exciting the suspicion of their con- E
querors. The memory of their old traditions and their ancient sustolns disap-peared
with their language. As Grand Canary was the head-quarters of the E
Inquisition, the auto-da-fe is said to have been perpetrated there. -
In addition to the cathedral, there are other handsome buildings in the $ city of Las Palmas. Immediately in front of it is the Ayimtamiento, or -
Town-hall, which forms a handsome ornament to the square. We are aware -
0
m
that i t has been sneeringly declared to be an exact facsimib of Day and E E
Martin's establishment in Holborn, while it is really a fine building, aad looks O
extremely well.
There is an excellent college for the education of young men. Chemistry, n
E Natural Fhilosophy, and the other branches of science are taught in it, lec- -
a
ture-rooms being devoted to each of these dapartments of instruction. The
building also contains a model-room and library. There is a dining-room in n
which the students take their meals, and a separate bath and dressing-room n
for each. For exercise there i.s a fine terrace-walk close upon the sea, and a 3
garden well íilled with the shrubs and evergreens of the island. Bookc are O
kept, recording the name, conduct, and progress of each student, which are
-alw. a-vc . n.neIn Jte ' th-my in-cn-ert.in.n "^f t - -h-rn~I~- .~- -h-T.lAih~e- - nrl-aInI cf t-h-e -in-ct-it-iit.in-n. -ic. ----
exceedingly liberal, the object in view, apparently, being that famiIies whose
limited means preclude them from sending their sons to Europe to complete
their education, should have the opportunity of obtaining sound, practical,
and useful instruction for them at home. Great order is maintained in the
establishment, the discipline of which is Yery strict. Many of the pupils, in
after life, have afforded good evidence of the excellent system of training
to which they were subjected in the early years of their life.
m- lne church and convenr: of &e íesuira is nedr íhia cokge. Tfic i~unares
were bankhed from Teneriffe during the religious and political commotions
which extended from Spain even to these small and remote islands, but were
subsequently permitted to return. Las Palmas also possesses a theatre and
casino for the amusement of the people, which, with the alameda, form in-teresting
and attractive places of resort to the inhabitants.
The aspect of the country around Las Palmas, and indeed in the whole
island of Grand Canary, differs in some material points from that of Teneriffe.
In consequence of the much greater quantity of rain that falls ann$ually in
the former island, everything looks verdant and refreshing, and vegetation
of al1 kinds is rernarkably abundant. It suffers under one great disadvantage,
however, Grand Canary being said not to be nearly so salubrious as Teneriffe.
In 1851, when it was visited by cholera, the isiand was completely decimated.
This fatal disease is said to have been first introduced by a ship from Habana,
which arrived with foul linen on board, a supposition confirmed by the fact
that it broke out in the quarter where the clothes were washed. The sane
vessel, bowever, is stated to have previously landed a passenger in quarantine
at Santa Cruz, where no evil results followed.
The road leading out of the town winds for some distance almg the edge
of a very deep ravine. The prospect is exceedingly pleasing and cheerful,
presenting a contin~uous bird's-eye view of gmtlemen's country-houses, every
inch of ground being carefully cultivated. There are innumerables gardens,
variegated with blossoming fiowers of al1 colours and kilnds. Pruductive
vineyards are seen over the whole face of the country, and there are many
dense groves and thickets in which, even at midday, one may find shelter
from the overpowering rays of the sun".
CHAS.W . THOMASA:d lUmtures and observatiíms on the west coast
of Africa and its islmds. Nueva York, 1860. Págs. 343-350.
"The city of Las Palmas, formerly the capital of the Canary Islands, and
now the residence of the Roya1 Council, is situated on the southern side of
the island, on a plain of a mile in width and about three miles in length. On
this plain, and to the west of the city, stand many venerable palm which
are said to have been of their present height when these islands were colo-nized,
and are therefore at least 1,500 years old. From them the city derived
its name, Las Palmas being literally «the palm trees,. From the anchorage,
the city presents a pretty, rather than aa imposing, appearance. The substan-tial,
square-roofed houses, are penerally painted in some brmiant color, and
here and there an ornamented dome, or graceful gire, gives m sir of taste
to the picture.
Ealy on the morning following our arrivai, 1 joined Dr. C. in a visit to
the shore; knowing that, with his many other inestimable qualities and
accomplishments, his thorough command of the Spanish language would make
him a valuable guide. We found our way to the English Hotel -so called,
perhaps, because the servants don't understand a word of that language - were
admitted thríouph a massive door into an open court, around which the house
g a ~ &i~ y j ~~ ~=r S2~ard&, S~pJ1!e -.$E~& ya&c &s, -e-w -e re con-ducted
to the second story, which alone is inhabitable in such buildings, led
into a dark room, and, when the heaw doors and window-shutters grated
their welcome to the light of day, found ourselves surrounded with pictures
illustratinp the adventures of Don Quixote. We felt at home at once! asked
the butler if he was not a lineal descendant of the immortal shadow - tdd
him we made the acquaintance of his relative in our boyhood, and hoped
that by 4 o'clock, he would give us a dinner worthy of the friends of the
farnily. He grinned and bowed, and we returned to the street for a lion hunt.
The city, which is built with some respect to system, is divided in the
centre by a river bed, now dry, which is inclosed by walls of solid masonry,
and spanned by a stone bridge, the balustrades of which are ornamented by
well cut marble statues of severa1 of the heathen deities. Near the river is
the fruit market; and here we loitered for a while, feasti,ng our eyes on the
greatest variety of fruits and vegetables that we ever beheld in a market-place.
The pumpkins, severa1 of which we failed to lift on account of their weight,
squashes, melons, and other fruits of the genus cucurbita, surpassed any
fancy pictures we had ever drawn of tropical luxuriance. We speak ,of this
as a tropical climate, for although it is not included in that zone which
geographers cal1 tropical, its climate and animal and vegetable productions
entitle it te thzt &ssifi~tion.
Let the reader imagine a small triangular court, lined gith stalls, in which
are heaps of such pumpkins as we have described, overhung by festoons of
smuoth rose-colored onions, and bunches of honey dropping bananas fifty
pounds in weight; crowd the doors and shelves with baskets of apples and
limes, oranges and plums, dates and mulberries, figs and melons; and, among
thwe, pack mamoth specimens of the common culinary vegetables of America,
making room for walnuts, almonds and chestnuts, and ornament the whole
with bunches of gorgeons flowers, and he will have a fair idea of the market
of Las Palmas in summer.
But little in the way of architecture is to be expected in western Africa
or any of its islands; yet, the cathedrai of St. Anne, though still unfinished
after a hundred years of building, is a larpe and beautiful ediíice; in that
style which, in its pointed and uplifting arches, is full of beauty, and syrn-bolically
appropriats to a temp!e of worship. The gothic style is speedily
regaining favor in Euroipe, and finds admiration in America, and the time is
not distant when it will be generally imitated in church architecture.
The arched and tastefully ornamented roof is supported within by the
raws uf columns which divide the interior into three aisles, of which the
central one has a tessdlated marble floor, while those on each side are orna-mented
with private altars, statuettes and oil paintings. 0mf these, two, re-presenting
the crucifixion and resurrection of our Lord, are valuable imitations
of Murillo. The choir-a: room on the floor, itself quite a large chape! - oc-cupies
one and of the central aisle, and the chancel, containing the grand
altar, which is covered with a piating of solid silver, the other. The lamp
which goes not out, suspended before the altar, is also solid silver, handso-mely
chased, and weighist five hundred pounds. We were shown into the
sacristy and dlowed to take the furniture of the altar and the vestments of
the pri.ests in our heretical hands. Several of the crucifixes are of solid gold,
and the chalice also is gold, set with costly diamonds. The vestures of the
higher ciergy are thjiic. iidiest fabricatioiis af :he Rind that we haie wer seer,;
,one of them, made .of white brocade silk, profuselr trimmed with a fringe
of pu,re gold - the robe of a bishop- cost over five thousand dollars. The
gaments alone are estimated at one hundred thousand dollztrs; the interest of
which would sumort and educate the poor children of the island.
From here we descended into a catacomb, dark and damp, which occupies
the space under the chancel, and has already severa1 occupants, including two
or three bishops. The roof oP this apartment is composed of large square
stones and stands, without arch or pillar, by being closely tongued and
grooved together, and fastened with a strong cement. It is a piece of masonry
worthy of any country.
Going through the puMic square, as we left the cathedral, we passed the
venerable-looking bishop of these islands, dressed in a red cloak, black knee-breeches,
scarlet hose and silver-buckled shoes. He was accompanied by a
number of Jesuit priests, who were dressed in long black gowns, wearing the
long stove-pipe hat, which here designates that order. We gave the amiable
old man a military sahte as we passed him, which he returned with the
unusual compliment. liftinz his cocked hat. and the stovepipes flying np in
imitation, reveakd a nmber of closely-shaven pates.
A mll-dressed and well-served dinner awaited us at the hotel, h t one
certainly more suitable to the stomach of a Don Quixote than ro that of an
American. The odor of garlic met us at the door to check the ardor of
appetite. Garlic in the soup, garlic in the fuh sauce, garlic in the gravy,
fricass6e & Za garlic, the bread, and even the dessert, tasted of garlie, and
for days after, the miserable scent followed us, as insensible to hints as a
poor relation. After dinner, we were visited by a couple of gentlemen, who
came to offer us, in commcon with the officers of the ship, the freedom of
the club-room of the city, and to escort us to such places as we desired to
visit. We placed ourselves at their disposal, walked through the most pleasant
parts of the city, and visited the foundling hospital and female oollege.
In th'e hospital there are aver one hundred children between the ages ,of
o few days and fourteen yeam, mostly females. They are here taught needle-work,
reading, and weaving, and furnished with food and c1,othing until they
are. old enough to make a living for themselves.
The institution is directed and maintained by the Sisters of Charity, who
continue a kindly watchfulness over their wards for years after tbey leave it.
Of the number of children there under six nonths old, two only were in
good health- this, not for the want of medical attention or good nursing,
but: because the majority of them are born with those diseases which are the
heritage of abandonments. The lady, acting as matron of the establishment,
informed us that of those brought there in infancy, but about ten per centum
reached the second year. The children partook of the evening meal-consisting
chiefly of bread and a light broth- while we were there; and as we were
leaving, they were chanting, mechanically and with husky, sorrowful notes,
their hymn of thanksgiving. Between those we left in the upper rooms in the
various stages of emaciation, and in articulo mirtis, and those singing in the
court below, we were struck with a common resemblance in expression of
Ieatures. Sadness marked every face. Early led into the mystery of sorrow,
strangers to the ~ o i c e of affection and the caresses of maternal love, they
are prowing prematurely old, knowing not the meaning of father, or sister,
or home; the affection and joyfulness of childhood a,re withering in the bud;
and with many, the pale cheek shows that the fair fiowers are dead. Will
Spring ever visit the gardens of these hearts? has this cold world a breath
of love, or a gleam ,of sunshine, to cal1 these dead heart-flowers to life?
No, not for al1 - not for most of them!
So much the rather thou, celestial Iight,
Shine inward!
At the femab college, the young ladies, natives of the islands, treated
us to some superior music. We were shown through the dormitories and
recitation-rooms, and everywhere order and taste were manifest. The course
of instruction is similar to that pursued in our own female colleges, but
differing advantageously in this, that languages take the place of mathematics,
and painting is carried beyond the region of daubing in colors to the highly
useful accomplishment of sketching from nature.
It was now night; so we joined our messmates at the club-room, where
we spent a pleasant hour receiving hospitalities from the gentlernen of the
city. Mter refoshmentsj the president of the club offered a toast, cTo the
friendly relations existing between the Canary Islands and the United States
-may they exist forever!~ This was anawered by our accomplished first- E
lieutemant, W. A. Bartlett, in excellent Spanish; both toasts were followed
by rounds of applause. A second was offered, «To the Jamestown and her
officers,, which was appropriately responded to by Lieutenant Commanding, a
J. F. Armstrong, who was followed by cthree times three,. E
E
Having thus contributed something toward strengthening the bonds of
peace existin; between our nations-we say this with a good deal of self-complacency,
reader-we walked to a brilliantly-lighted square near by, e
where a military band was discoursing artistic music, and the ladies of the
city were promenading. The Iadies were beautifuI, and walked exquisitely; - -
0
but we beg to be excused from going into the usual ecstasies of admiration
over Spanish female beauty. True, their carriage is admirable, their biack
eyes soft and beautiful, but too languid, and lacklustre, and are wanting in =
intellectual vivacity; and the faces of the Spanish señoritas will not compare
favorably with those of the young blonds and brunettes of America. -E
Here, as in Spain and the Havanas, young people of opposite sexes do
not walk together in public, unless they are affiancés, and then, they are 1
accompanied by the mother of the lady, or a prudent relative. The reason ;
offered for this usage is, that the sexes have more respect for each other $
when kept far apart; but the true reason, is the suspicion of parents, who 2
are often conscious of not having set a proper example before their children.
We are satisfied that the degree of intimacy allowed in the good circles
of American society we exclude upper tens, parwnus, and the unitators oi
the defects of foreign society now so numerous in our cities- contributes to
the self-dependence and happiness of both sexes. The unhappy marriages
which, statisticians te11 us, abound in Spanish countries, may, in part at least,
be traced to the incongeniality which must so often result, where the parties
know nothing of each other's personal qualities previously to marriage; and
also to the want of confidente in a virtue which has never been left to stand
in its own strength. We agree with the vicar of Wakefield, that ca virtue
which requires to be always watched, is not worth having».
On the day following our excursion, we remained aboard, and on Wed-nesday
visited the young but promsing male college of this city, and the
cochineal fields in the suburbs, of which cultivation we shall speak under the
head of Teneriffe. On Thursday, our officers were engaged to dine with
Madam Mendoza Tate, a South Carolinian by birth, who is married to a
wealthy gentleman of this island; but a violent storm came up at noon, so
that we were compelled to put to sea, and returned no more to Grand
Canary".
JULES LECLERQ: Voyage aux Iles Fortunées. París, 1880. Págs. 216-
222.
"En montant sur le pont, j'ai été ravi du coup d'oeil pittoresque que
présente la ville des Palmes, vue du large: elle est Mtie en amphithéatre
sur une colline, et rappelle Lisbonne. Une bande de nuages couvrait le paysage
environnant, mais a Yarriere-plan les cimes lointaines de l'ile se détachaient
sur le ciel bleu, éclairées par les premiers feux du soleil. La ville des Palmes
se présente de loin beaucoup mieux que Sainte-Croix.
Notre bateau devait s'arreter ici une journée entikre: c'était assez pour
se faire une idée de la ville. Débarquer aux Palmes n'est pas chose aisée: la
houle secouait notre chaloupe comme un fétu de paille, et il fallut manoeuvrer
i'aviron pendant une grande demi-heure. 11 est rare que la mer ne soit pas
agitée devant les Palmes, dont la rade est absolument découverte; aussi les
navires d'Europe préfkrent-ils relacher 2 Sainte-Croux, que offre un mouillage
plus síir. A une lieue des Palmes se trouve un petit port mieux abrité, qui
a nom Puerto de la Luz: c'est la que les navires se réfugient en cas de
mauvais temps.
J'ai été frappé du caractkre oriental des Palmes: on se croirait plut6t
dans une ville arabe que dans une ville espagnole: i'asgect des habitations,
les ruelles irrégulieres et montueuses, le type meme des habitants, tout
rappelle le voisinage du Maroc. Ici, comme chez les Maures, les maisons sont
généralernent sans étage; elles se terrninent en terrasses et sont blanches
comme la niege. La grande rue a seule un caractere européen: c'est la rue des
affaires; elle est plus animée et plus belle que la grande rue de Sainte-Croix,
et l'on sent tout de suite que c'est aux Palmes que se concentre l'activité
idustrielle et commerciale des Canaries.
Un ravin divise la ville en deux quartiers, que réunit un beau pont en
pierre orné de statues. Ce pont traverse une riviere sans eau, pleine de galets,
et au beau milieu de la riviere, j'ai vu des champs de mais. VoilA une riviere
qui se respecre encore moins que le Manzanares! Du haut du pont, la vue
s'égare sur de luxuriants jardins plantés de palmiers et sur les maisons du
faubourg qui se hissent les unes au-dessus des autres, suspendues aux flancs
des montagnes. Dans le lointain on apercoit le Sancillo, point culminant de
I'ile, atteignant une altitude de 7.000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer.
J'ai couru tout d'abord au marché, oii j'ai passé en revue les fruits du
pays, raisins, pasteques, régimes de bananes, figues d'Inde, etc. La poissonne-rie,
située tout i &té, est une charmante création qu'on ne trouverait dans
aucune ville de France. J'ai pu observer 1i le costume des femmes du peuple:
elles se coiffent d'un voile d'étoff eblanche qui n'est pas moins gracieux que
la mantille. Leur type est plus franchement mauresque que celui des Ténéri-fiennes:
11 y a queique chose d'africain dans les éclairs de leurs regards; elles
ont une belle démarche, grke a leur habitude de porter des amphores sur
la tete, a la mode arabe. Dans chacune des ?les de l'archipel on trouve des
types différents et une maniere différente de se vstir.
La cathédrale des Palrnes est le phs beau monument religieux des Ca-naries:
elle peut supporter la comparaison avec les plus somptueuses basiliques
de 1'Espagne. La fa~ade, inachevée, est d'un style classique d' une grande
pureté. L'intérieur, du seizieme sikcle, offre un gothique trboriginal. De
légers piliers accouplés, sans chapiteaux, s'élancent vers la vofite, oh ils se
divisent en une infinité de nervures d'une délicatesse et d'une grace char-manta.
Suivant la mode espagnole, le choeur occupe le milieu de l'église. On
m'a fait remarquer une lampe d'argent d'une grande valeur donée, dit-on, par
le cardinal Ximenh. Dans une chapelle repose le poete canarien Cairasco de
Figueroa, né en 1535, mort en 1610: 11 écrivit un poeme sur les antiquités
canariennes, st Cervanth lui rendit hommage c o m e a un gran poete. Sous
le maitre-amutel se trouve le tombeau de l'historien Viera.
La ville des Palrnes est la plus considérable de i'archipel canarien: elle
compte une population de 15.00'0 ames. Bien que le capitaine général réside
a Sainte-Craix, la vilk des Palmes, qui fut autrefois le chef-lieu de cette
province dYEspagne, a conservé tous les autres priviléges d'une capitale: elle
est le siége de l'évgché et de la cour d'appel (real audiencia). Le palais de
justice est installé dans un ancien couvent: un magistrat de I'audiencia, ancien
juge ?i Sé.ville, a voulu IuimGme me montrer les différentes salles d'audience;
suivant la mode espagnole, il y regne un luxe inusité chez nous: les juges,
vetus d'un riche costume de velours noir garni de dentelles, siégent sous un
dais en velours rouge orné du portrait du rol Alphonse. La cour d'appel des
Palmes compte un président, un président de chambre, quatre magistrats,
un procureur du roi (fiscal), un substitut (teniente fiscal), un secrétaire, un
rapporteur (relator) et deux greffiers. L'audiencia est saisie en ce moment du
procb de deux meurtriers accusés d'avoir assassiné un Anglais 2 Ténériffe,
en rase caanpagne, dans le but de s'approprier une somme de soixante mille
francs dont il était porteur. Les deux individus ont été récemment condamnés
k la peine capitale par le juge de premiere instance avec lequel je dinais
journellement a Orotava, et il n'est pas douteux que la sentence ne soit con-firmée
en appel. Cet assassinat fait d'autant plus de bruit que les crimes sont
extrsmement rara aux Canaries.
La ville des Palmes possede une ravissante alameda: elle est ombragée
de lauriers de l'Inde, de palmiers de Cuba, et d'autres arbres qui se cultivent
dans nos serres d'Europe. Je n'ai rien vu de plus joli que cette promenade
publique. Sur une petite place voisine s'éleve une charmante fontaine surmon-tée
du buste du poete Cairasco.
En quittant I'alameda, j'ai gravi les ruelles tortueuses du faubourg, oh
grouille une population 2 demi nue, et suis arrivé A la forteresse, d'ou I'on
domine toute la ville. N'était la cathédrale, dont les tours rappellent celles
de Zurich, on croirait voir une blanche cité mauresque, avec ses maisons
cubiques d'une ébIouissante blancheur, ses terrasses, ses patios. Les palmiers
qui surgissent de tous c6tés completent I'illusion: c'est i eux que la ville
doit son nom.
La m&ropole canarienne occupe une vaste 6tendue: les maisons sont
disséminées et 15, sans cohésion, et les champs de cochenille font invasion
jusqu'au milieu des habitations. Rien n'est plus pittoresque que le panorama
de cette cité batie entre la mer et les montagnes, dans une vallée délicieuse;
le flarnboyant soleil des tropiques donne a ses Manches maisons un éclat
éblouissant qui contraste avec le bleu profond de YOcéan. Au nord-est surgit
l'ilot volcanique de l'Isleta, qu'un étroit isthme de sable rattache a l'ile mire.
A i'opposite s'ouvre une gracieuse perspective sur une vallée intérieure, oh
une multitude de palmiers déploient leur feuillage aérien. A l'ouest, la ville
est dominée par le hautes falaices criblées d'une infinité de cavernes qu'habite
toute une populatian de Troglodytes. Ces excavations datent des Guanches,
qui y avaient élu domicile.
Apres midi, j'ai fait une excursion en voiture au port de la Luz, en com-pagnie
d'un négociant marseillais établi aux Palmes. Nous avons suivi la
route tracée a travers le sable de l'isthme qui relie l'lsleta a la Grande
Canarie. Le pic de Ténériffe, qu'on ne peut voir des Palmes, a cause des
montagnes intermédiaires, est parfaitement visible de i'isthme. Griice a l'extre-me
transparence de l'air, le Pic semble ne se trouver qu'a une portée dme fusil,
LU;-X.L. L q-..9u:1 LL W--L:LA ea r é d i t C 2 pl-a de qUinze lieües de distaiice, ei sa cir~iei, 'urie
des plus &levées de notre hémisphGre, s'abaisse par la distance au point de
ne paraitre pas plus haute que la barrikre de I'Étoile.
Nous nous sommes arrgtés aux sources minérales de Santa-Catalina, ou
l'on a étaWi récemment une maison de bains. Ces eaux ont été analysées
par des médecins parisiens. Elles sont riches en chlorure de sodium et s'em-ploient
avec succh dans les affections scrofuleuses, rhumatismales et gout-teuses,
et dans celles des voies digestives. Située a une centaine de metres
de la mer, Santa-Catalina est la seule source minkrale connue oh l'on puisse
combiner avec les bains de mer le traitement intérieur. 11 serait indispensable
d'organiser l'établissement de telle sorte que cette double action thérapeutique
pGt etre mise a profit. Malheureusement les installations actuelles laissent
fort 2 désirer".
OLIVIAM . STONE:T enerife and its six satellites or The C a n q Zs-lands
Past and Present. Londres, 1887. Volumen 11, págs. 2-11.
"We came ashore t the Puerto de la Luz, as the landing is considered
safer there. When vessels stay a courgle of days, they prefer this anchorage,
as there is more shelter. By this means we saw the commencement of the
proposed Harbour of Refuge, and had a pleasant drive over the isthmus to
the town of Las Palmas. The Isleta, adjoining Canaria on the north-east, is
a miniature island of Gran Canaria. The same forces, on a smaller scale, have
been at work there, as in the larger island. It is formed by craters. One conical
hill in the shape of a peak, with a small portion of sloping land around its
base, faces us as we lie in the roadstead. No doubt at one time it was an
island, for it is now joined to Canaria only by an isthmus entirely compased
of sand. On the western side of this isthmus of Guanarteme, there is at the
present moment a bar, some distance from the isthmus, but running parallel
with it, showing that the sand is still accumulating. Onlv small boats can
enter there. It is somewhat like, though on a small scale, the isthmus at
Auckland, which divides the Hauraki gulf from the Manakau, the latter
carresponding to Confital Bay. The New Zealand isthmus is, however, seven
miles wide, whilst that of Guanarteme is but a mile. From the Isleta to Las
Palmas the coast line makes a grand sweep. In the centre of the curve, where
it is greatest, the new harbour is being made. From La Luz the town of
Las Palmas looks large and rather imposing as it lies along the coast, for the
most part on almost leve1 ground, gradually ascending behind the town until
stopped by a precipitous rock. Nothing apparently grows on the isthmus,
which is entirely composed of light, drab-coloured dune sand, except tamarisk
bushes, scraggy as usual.
On the western side, next the town, a bluff of basalticlooking rock, rising
abruptly out of the sand, no doubt formerly out of the sea, is good evidence
of the formation of the isthmus. Two old forts, those of La Luz and Santa
Catalina, one on the Isleta and one on the main island, are only worthy of
note on account of their age, for they are very small.
The road is excellent the whole way to the town, a distance of about
three miles. As we cross the neck of land, we pass on the left mineral baths,
and on the right the land begins to show signs of cultivation; palm groves
appear, with a large, well-built house in their midst. Soon each side of the
road is iined by houses, rhese presenrly forming a conrinuous srreez, through
which we passed into the town.
Along this street it was curious to note the braziers, not because they
are new, but because their surroundings are altered. Instead of old houses
and broken pavements, we have here even rows of new houses, a regular,
flagged pathway, and a macadamised road. It seems an anomaly to have a
little black brazier standing on the edge of the public pavement, and a
woman crouching over it fanning the charcoal with a palm fan.
We passed through almost the entire town, and by a bridge crossed over
the barranco, in which was a little water, before reaching our destination,
the Fonda Europa, kept by Don Ramon Lopez. There was no English hotel *
in Las Paimas when we arrived, but before we left one had been started by
a Mr. and Mrs. Quiney (English people) in a part of the town near the mole.
The Fonda Europa is a large house, in which an English merchant formerly
dwelt. It is high, as are most of the houses in Las Palmas. We seem to have
left Europe in Tenerife, and reached Africa in Gran Canaria, so different
do the houses appear. Al are flat-roofed. 1 could not see a single peaked
one in the entire town, and the Moresque appearance is completed by the
domes of the cathedral, which are decidedly Moorish. Las Palmas is a finer-looking
town than Santa Cruz. The streets are broader, the houses newer
and generally larger, but it Iacks the picturesqueness that crooked, narrow
streets, with overhanging eaves, give to its rival, and, owing to the distance
of the background of mountains, has not that bold and majestic scenery in
iw YiCi~tYih at IeE& a Jaíita CrUz. Eoth are UEfol?Uliaie
in being placed in barren situations, but both might be much improved could
a liberal water supply be secured. Las Palmas, besides being the chief com-mercial
town of the island, is also the residente of the bishop and clergy;
it is, in fact, Laguna and Santa Cruz rolled into one. It was owing to this,
1 suppose, that the moment we left the hotel we were besieged by beggars,
who were most persistent and annoying.
After some coffee and bread-and-butter and the usual fight with the men
* 1 hear lately that on some fifty acres of land near Santa Catalina a hotel and
fincas are going to be built.
about their charges for luggage, which to us is annoying, but which they
look upon as part of the daily business, we sauntered forth. The cathedral,
we knew, from seeing its domes, must be in our immediate vicinity. Turning
to the left on leaving the hotel, we walked to the end of the street Balcones,
where there is a picturesque old fountain, at which the inhabitants obtain
water. Some girls had long bamboos, which they placed at the dribble
of water at the tap, severa1 feet above their barrels. Very picturesque they
looked in their coloured head kerchiefs, out of which peered sunburnt faces
as they leaned in unconscious grace against the grey stones.
The exterior of the cathedral of San Cristobal in very massive, though the
edifice is not finished yet. Two towers, dome-shaped, rise on either side of
the main entrance. Between them is the foundation of a tower which is no
doubt intended to rise above the others and complete the building, when
sufficient money is forthcoming. The church is at one end of the plaza, the
town-hall and museum at the other; the fine open space shows off the
caihedrai weli. Part o i ihe c h u r ~ hi s olii, dacing Dack ro abour 1506. 1-
foundations were laid in the days of Isabella the Catholic by Don Diego
Montande, who was the first architect. He was paid for his services the
magnificent sum of ninepence a day! It was really erected, however, by
Don Diego Nicolas Eduardo, of Irish descent, who, it is stated, built the roof
of so Iight a stone, that the workmen refused to work, whereupon he sat
beneath it to encourage them. The interior, Gothic in style, is lofty, with
fluted and well-proportioned pillars. The ceiling is a light stone-work tracery;
whitewash in between, covering we know not what, is no improvment. The
ceiling reminds one a little of that of Bath Abbey. The chancel is hung al1
round with crimson and gold cloth, and looks simple and in good taste. A
massive silver candelabra, the work of Genoese artists, presented by Cardinal
Ximenes in 169'0, hangs before the altar, on which are silver candlesticks.
A funeral service is going on, a black-and-gold sarcophagus being placed at
the foot of the altar. There is a Iantern dome, so the church is not very dark.
There is a lantern dome, so the church is not very dark. There are aisles at
either side, containing many chapels. The grandeur of the interior is, however,
spoiled by a heavy piece of masonry in the middle of the nave, in which
the organ and choir are placed. There are two holy water fonts, sugported
by turbaned dwarfs, and two pulpits, one on either side. The windows have
small circular, coloured glass panes; the colouring is not good, the effect
on oné's sense of the artistic being painful. There is yellow at the top, then
blue, then magenta, and green at the bottom. We will hope these are only
temporary; until some gond Chiirchmen prerent stiined glass winrleurs. w e
saw the cathedral frequently, and later we were shown the vestments.
It was breakfast-time at the fonda, so we returned there. Having a letter
of introduction to Dr. Chil, and finding he lived next door, we sent the letter
in to him, which he promptly answered in person, introducing himself to us.
Señor Don Gregorio Chil is a fine, hale elderly man, with white hair, and
upright as a soldier. He is one of the historians * of the island, and is more
given to literature than to his profession. He studied medicine in Paris,
L - - - - - - u u w t x c i , ami i j ~ d ~ i i ~a eisit tie; bur he is a rhrorough srucienr. He is the
founder and careful, tender nurse of the young museum, not long started,
--
* Estudios Históricos, Climatoldgicos, y Patoldgicos de las Islas Canarias (1879).
and is interested in everything connected with the past of these islands. His
freedom of thought has rendered him obnoxious to the clergy here, and,
although, 1 be!ieve, not exactly excommunicated for holding Darwinian
qpinions, he is more or less at variance with the Church. He had to be
married elsewhere, in France or Spain - 1 forget which - owing to the feeling
against him.
Again setting out, we called on Mr. James Miller, our viceconsul, to
whom we had letters of introduction. We then call,ed on Señor Don Agustin
Millares, another historian, who is also a novelist. Canaria is rich in writers.
Don Agustin took us into his well-fllled library, and kindly gave us two of
his works - his «History of the Islands», which is going through the press,
and his «History of the Inquisition in the Islands». * For this latter work
Don Agustin has been excom~municated; so 1 fear what he says on the subject
must be true. It must keep the uHoly Catholic Churchp out here busy excom-municating
al1 its thoughtful and iearned men. Several of those who had been
excommunicated told us that the religious sentence passed upon them did
not trouble them. After it had been pronounced they found that they were
just as well in body, and as for their souls, they considered they were at least
just as good Catholics as, if not better than, they were before. Many of the
undoubtedly tfaithfula told us that they held those excornmunicated for
holding advanced scientific opinions and liberaiity of thought in just as high
esteem as before they were excommunicated. So we gathered that out here
the thunder of the Church of Rome has lost much, if not all, of its ancient
power. We had a number of letters of introduction to the people of Las
Palmas, and delivered many of them. One was to a gentleman of the mer-cantile
house of Ripoche, Señor Don Nestor de la Torre, who most kindly
called on us and accompani.ed usato severa1 places.
Dr. Chil took us to see the museum in the town-hall. There is a hall
inside this building for municipal purposes, decorated in florid style in pale
mauve and white, the floor tiled. The museum is at the t q of the building,
and is situated in a iong, namow room or gallery. Here is the first printing-press
used in the island at the end of the eighteenth century. Bits of iron and
balls, found in the old walls of a castle when pulled down, are also here.
But to us the Guanche remains were the most interesting. These people,
however, were Antiguos Canarios, not Guanches, a name that belonged only
to the inhabitants .of Tenerife, as 1 have before mentimed. A jar o£ butter
found in Fuerteventura, and smelling strongly still of goat's milk, is a curious
relic. It is not every day one sees butter at least fi,ve hundred years old. There
are a number of small carthenware, seal-like devices in triangles and squares
of various shapes, whose use is unknown. Amongst the mummies was that of
a woman, with curly brown hair and rather projecting teeth. The stitching
on the skins is as fine as ttop-sewing». Whole cases full of skulls occupied
one side of the room, while specimens of the pelvis lay together in a heap
under the windows, and of the femur in another heap, and of the humerus
in another place. One femur shown us was that of a large man, about the
size of a big Englishman. Another femur had been fractured, and, being
badly set, had shortened. There was also a skull with short reddish hair on
the skin. Later we photographed some of the curiosities, but just now we
* Historia de la Inquisición en las Islas Canarias (1874)
202
had not time to do so, having to make arrangements for starting into the
interior.
It takes much time and many inquiries to learn what is the best mode of
seeing this island, as to go round the coast would not by any means be the
most satisfactory way. The heart of the island is the part we particularly
wish to see. As it is getting late in the year, we think it advisable to take the
highest parts first, before the snow comes to render mozintain-travelling im-possible.
We finally decided to make two separate excursions, the k s t to be
by way of Arucas, Guia, Agaete, and Aldea to Artenara and Tejeda, in the
centre of the island, and back to Las Palmas by Teror; on the second to go
by San Mateo to the Roque del Saucillo and the Pico de las Nieves, in
mid-isla~nd, returning by Tirajana, Aguimes, and Telde. By this means we
should see the most interesting parts of the island. The southern portion is
barren and lava-strewn, like the south of Tenerife; still, i.f time permitted,
we hoped to visit it a well. It was now November 6th, and we wished to get
back to Cngiand for Christmas, so we reckoned upon giving three weeks to
Gran .Canaria and a week to Fuerteventura and Lanzarote, going by steamer
from the latter island to the ccast of Africa and Cadiz, taking a peep at
Morocco and Gibraltar and a run home through Spain. How our intentions
were frustrated remains to be seen.
November 7th, Wednesday.-There is a patio of course to this fonda,
situated at one side of which is the comedor, a long, narrow room, with one
table down its length, capable of accommodating about forty people. An open
verandah goes round the other three sides, and the comedor is rea'lly only
the fourth side enclosed. The centre is fllled with trees and shrubs, grouped
round a fountain, which rarely plays. A pantain droops its long leaves in the
middle, and in the corners are a couple of goung dragon trees. There are also
palms, geraniums, eucdypti, and papyri, while creepers twine round the
pillars to the floor above, making the spot green and pleasant to the eye.
The rest of the ground floor is divided into bedrooms, chiefly occupied by
residents at the hotel. A broad staircase lea& to the next floor, upon which
are situated the sala and more bedrooms. There are two bedrooms on each
side ,of the sala, opening into it; these are kept, as a ruk, for English visitors,
and we had the larger one. There is no outlook from the windows, but this
matters little in a climate where it is possible to be always in the open air.
The bedrooms openi,ng off the verandah which runs round the house, upstairs
as well a down, are al1 dark, having ,only borrowed light. The doors open on
the verandahs, and the bedrooms, having no outer walls, cannot of course
have windows. This is not considered a disadvantage by Spaniards, who like
darkened rooms; but we English prefer windows. The temperature this
morning at eight o'clock in the shade of the patio was 53h0 F. ( 1 2 O C.). The
food here is very good, and the wine supplied with the meals a light, pleasant
kind of Burgundy. Although breakfast is served at ten o'clock, and is not our
idea ,of that meal, as it consists of meats only and wine, it is possible to get
a comfortable English breakfast, as Don Ramon quite understands the ways
of English people. It is made properly; but we had some of our own. which 1
used to give to Pedro, the head waiter, to make for us. The butter was very
good, and there was always a plentiful supply. As we did not require such
a substantial meal as the Spaniards, Don Ramon kindly gave us our breakfast
when we liked, and had eggs or fish, ham or omelets, chops or steaks, cooked
for us specially. Although we were only a couple of days in Las Palmas at
this date, we spent more time here later, when we got into our own ways
and hours. Nothing could exceed the courtesy of Don Ramon and his
household. It must be remembered, too, that we only paid so much a day,
and no extras were charged. We had luncheon too, and when more Engliih
stayed in the hotel, dinner was served later for their and our benefit. 1 had
tea always brought to my room after dinner, and although it was my own
tea and biseuits, still we frequently had Don Ramon's bread, butter, and
honey, not only for ourselves, but for other English people. Considering al1
things, and even supposing provisions to be cheap, 1 think the charge of six
shillings a day was very moderate and reasonable. The only real fault we
had to find was with the attendance. There were but two waiters and two
chambemaids, and sometimes only one, Maria, a jolly, fat negress; so when
the house was full our bedrooms would be neglected until late in the
afternoon.
Las Palmas is divided into two parts by the Barranco Guiniguada. The
iiortherii part is c&ed Tr'iaiia, aiid the süütherii Vegueta. She forilíer is the
commercial part; in it are situated the large shogs, the mole, and the
barracks. The other district, where we are. is devoted to the clergy, the
magistracy, the prison (which used to be the headquarters of the Inquisition),
the college, and melancholy. We seldom meet people in the streets here;
what bustle there is goes on at the other end. Las Palmas is not so lively
nor full of interest as Santa Cruz, owing to the anchorage for vessels being
so far from the town".
CHARLESED WARDES:R ides and studies En the Canarzj Isiands. Lon-dres,
1888. Págs. 348-349.
"It is rather by accident than design that 1 aamable to say anything about
the interior of this island. Spring was merginginto summer, and the ophthal-mic
glare of the white houses of Las Palmas daily made me long for a
homeward-bound ship. One morning, however, 1 found myself affot for the
day at the ridiculous hour of half-past four. It was in this wise. 1 had in-cautiously
permitted the hotel manager to let the second bed in my double-beddedroom
to a gentleman, who was not expected to appear until late in
the night. My companion proved to be the chief engineer of a Spanish
steamer en route froxn Buenos Ayres tu Cadiz, a rosy, great-girthed Scotch-man,
who lurched into the bedroom, very drunk, at one o'clock in the
morning. His eccentricities of course awoke me, and when he lay in bed
(in his clothes) he snored so that a continuance of sleep was, for me, impos-sible.
1 shouted to him to moderate his spirits; but of what use was it
trying to arouse a man accustomed to the shrieks and groans of machinery?
He was as deaf to .everything as a dead man. And so, at four o'clock, 1 left
him to snore alone, and prowled forth into Las Palmas' streets, bent on
hiring a horse and a guide, and going straightway as far in a day as was
possible.
By good luck, both horse and guide were found before six o'clock; and
thus we started on a long tour in the prime of the morning. The horse was
an odd Andalusian: so tal1 that his legs seemed to have outgrown his body,
and with a movement like the jerk of a camel. He was also hideously bony,
and had a sore under the saddle which would have kept both of us at home,
if 1 had known of it ere the journey began. In spite of these apparent
dernerits, however, the brave fellow took me forty miles with unhgging
pluck, in the fourteen hours between 6 a.m. and 8 p.m. My guide, too, was
not of common mould. An ordinary Canarian would have shrugged his
shoulders at the prospect of the exertion implied in the programe submitted
to him. out Pancho, as he was called, was brought forward to me as a lad
of spirit, whose energies were rather heightened than depressed by an excep-tional
undmertaking. He had lived through a stormy youth in Havana, been
criminally associated with blood-shed, could show five knife marks about
his body: and was still untamed. They told me 1 could have no better guide,
if 1 would take him with his geccadilloes. Never was there such a babbler
as this Pancho. Gossip and tales of adventure raced one afta the other from
his tongue; and withal he was my very obedient servant".
JOHN WHITFORTDh:e Canary Islands as a winter resort. Londres,
1890. Págs. 4-10.
"There are four hotels within the precincts of this city of Las Palmas;
two are conducted by EngIish peqle, and two by Spaniards. During the
summer these hotetels are not crowded, but as winter approaches they fill
rapidly; then the proprietos open one, two, three, or any number of private
houses, as annexes, to accommodate surplus guests. As far as their appliances
go these caravansaries are comfortable; they are in a transition state between
the old fashions and the new, between highly objectionable arrangements for
health and the latest sanitary improvements. Food is plentiful and good, but
the beef really requires muscular ability to appreciate it. The abundance of
fruit, however, supplied at every meal at every hotel, and also enjoyed by
the poorest inhabitant, fully compensates for that fault. One gradually becomes
so fond of bananas, oranges, figs, and grapes, that joints of beef are passed
without regret. The wine of the country is on the table, generally free of
charge, at al1 meals and at al1 times. The tables fairly groan with épergnes
and dishes laden with whatever fruit is in season, and flowers continually
smile in al1 directions-a perfect eye-feast of colours. The Spanish hotels
charge from five shillings per day, including room, board, attendance, the
rüii üf the ditiiiiiig-rooz, c~riidurs,a i?d fla: ro&; and t.he Ezgliuh lail&rlu
levy from eight shillings upwards for occasional guests. To those who remain
for any length of time abatement is made. For families who desire houses to
themselves, either for seclusion or economy, or for both, nothing can be
simpler than to hire one wherever they choose. There are plenty to be had
everywhere in al1 the islands. They can bring with them from England, bed-ding,
soft pillows, knives, forks, spoons, and other portable requisites, and
purchase ordinary bulky articles, such as bedsteads, chairs, and tables, excel-ientiy
tanned sheep and goar-skin rugs, and usefui grdbh niatíi~ig, upm the
spot. Carpets are not desirable. The climate is luxury and comfort in itself,
and sufficient of the Spanish language can be picked up in a few weeks to
make ordinary purchases".
R. VERNEAUCi:n q années de séjour aux Iles CanarZes. París, 1891.
Págs. 194-203.
"Le port de La Luz n'est plus a Iétat de simple projet, il peut déja abriter
les navires du plus fort tonnage, qui trouvent 15 toutes les facilités pour se
ravitailler. Situé dans une positicn exceptionnelle, a 5 kilomktres de la capitale
de l'ie, 5 Iaquelle il est relié par une route plane, incessamment sillonnée par
des voitures, ce port est appelé a un grand avenir. Cest d'ailleurs le seul
point des Canaries ou, en cas de maucais temps, les navires puissent trouver
un abri su.
S'il est une ile de l'archipel qui mérite le nom de Fortunée, c'est assuré-ment
la Grande Canarie. Elle ne possede ni le fameux pic de Teyde, ni les
forets de Las Mercedes et de 1'Agua Garcia, dont je parlerai lorsque j'arriverai
2 Ténériffe; mais, en dehors de cela, elle n'a rien 5 envier hcelle-ci, et,
a beaucoup d'autres points de vue, elle lui est infiniment supérieure.
11 me serait difficile de faire acccmplir an lecteur un voyage 5 travers les
mille soixante-cinq villes, abourgs, villages et hameaux que renferme la Grande
Canarie; je ne pourrai parler que des localités les plus importantes. Ce grand
nombre de centres de population s'explique par ce fait que i'ile est relative-ment
la plus peuplke de toutes: ses 89.980 habitants sont répartis sur une
superficie de 1.376 kilomtttres carrés, soit, en moyenne, plus de 65 hzbitants
par kilomktre.
La capitale, Las Palmas, compte, d'aprks les chiffres officiels du recence-ment
de 1.879, une population de 17.069 ames, mais ce chiffre est bien
au-dessous de la réalité. Pour des raisons fiscales, cette ville cherche a rester
au-dessous de 20.000 habitants; c'est pour cela que la statistique accuse le
chiffre que je viens de donner, tandis que, réellement, la population dépasse
un peu 24.800 ames. C'est, on le voit, une ville de quelque importance qui
mérite bien une petite description.
Vue de la mer, la Ciudad de Las Palmas présente un coup d'oeil des plus
pittoresques. Tout le long de la plage, s'étale la partie princigale de la ville,
qui est bordée, au nord et au sud, par de belles propriétés, bien entretenues
et plantks de beaux abres; on distingue de loin une foule de palmiers qui
montrent, au-dessus des maisons, leurs panaches de feuilles. En arnttre, les
divers quartiers s'étagent en amphithéfitre sur les montagnes, qui se terminent
en pentes assez rapides a une vertaine distance de la mer. Au nord, le
Castillo del Rey domine toute la ville, perché comme un nid d'aigle sur un
rocher abrupt.
n'étgt pas faci!e, ivant !a cr&ti~n du pert & La Luz, .ir .i&harquer
B Las Palmas; la mer y est souvent agitée, et il existe une sorte de barre i
la pointe du m6ie. En 1877, j'ai vu chavirer devant moi une chaloupe con-duite
pourtant par des marins qui franchissaient chaque jour ce mauvais pas.
Mais, aujourd'hui, on peut débarquer de pléin pied dans le. nouveau port, et,
en quelques instants, une voiture vous conduit dans la ville. On y pénetre
par une belle rue bordée de quelques jolies maisons et de nombreux magasins.
En face de l'ancien mole, s'6!eve, devant une petite place glantée d'arbres
et de iiizSiW de GUrS, le iiuUyeaU pdais que vierit di faire construire yauto-rité
militaire. Bien que le capitaine général réside encore a Sainte-Croix de
Ténériffe, la capitale de la province, il n'en a pas moins voulu avoir une
résidence a Las Palmas, et il est probable que cet édifice ne restera pas
inoccupé.
Des nombreux monuments se rencontrent dans la ville. Le plus important
est la cathédrale, qui présente un aspect impcsant, quoique sa facade ne soit
pas terminée; l'intérieur en est un peu nu, mais elle contient pourtant
différents objets d'une grande valeur, entre autres une lampe en argent
massif et le maitre-autel de m6me métal. Le shoeur en bois du pays, et un
bénitier en marbre de la Grande Canarie, ne laissent pas d'offrir un certain
intéret. C'est surtout le trésor et le vestiaire des chanoines qui renferment
des richesses inouxes.
Las Palmas, est, depuis longtemps, le sikge d'un éveché: depuis quelques
années, Ténériffe possede anssi son éveque. Le palais épiscopal, qui s'éleve
A quelques pas de la cathédrale, n'a de remarquable que sa facade postérieure.
La mairie (ayuntamiento), située a l'autre extrémité de a place, a au contraire,
un aspect monumental; son escalier, sa salle des fktes, répondent bien a
l'aspect extérieur. Au deuxikme étage, se trouve le muske canarien, qui
renferme deja de nombreuses pikces intéressantes pour le naturaliste.
Parmi les édifices, il me faurait citer encore les autres églises, l'hopital,
la prison, le séminaire, le marché au poisson, celui A la viande et aux fruits,
le palais de justice, installé dans le vieux convent de San Agustin; c'est la
que siege la cour d'appel. Je ne saurais oublier les théatres, dont un surtoul,
qui sera bientot terminé, pourrait lutter avec nos meilleurs theatres de pro-vince.
Ce qui est important pour le voyageur, c'est qu'il est assuré de trouver
des h6tels a Las Palmas; ils sont meme nombreux et offrent un certain
confortable: les uns sont dirigés par des Esgagnols, d'autres par des Italiens,
d'autres enfin par des Anglais. Dans l'un, la Fonda de Europa, j'ai pu avoir
une cuisine francaise.
Les maisons, terminées en terrasse, posskdent toutes une cour intérieure,
généralement ornée de fleurs et entourée d'une galerie couverte, qui permet
d'y trouver de l'ornbre A toutes les heures de la journée. Elles s'alignent sur
des rues assez larges, bien aérées, sauf celles des quartiers construits sur les
versants des montaznes.
En dehors des places que j'ai déja signalées, je dois mentionner celle de
San Bernardo, et surtout la Alameda, réellement fort belle avec ses palmiers
royaux, s.es immenses platanes, ses lauriers d'Inde, etc.
La ville est divisée par le ravin du Guiniguada; deux ponts, l'un en
pierre, l'autre en bois, permettent de passer d'un coté a l'autre. Ce ravin,
complktement a sec pendant I'été, devient un torrent impétueux dans la saison
des pluies; en 1886 il a emporté toute une facade du marché au poisson.
On trouve A Las Palmas toutes sortes de ressources, et souvent 5 tres
bon compte. 11 n'est pas rare d'y acheter des articles européens 5 meilleur
marché qu'en France. La douane n'existe pas; les Anglais, et surtout les
Allemands, exportent 15 une foule d'objets qu'ils offrent a des conditions qui
rendent bien difficile la concurrence franqise. Je dois dire pourtant que
l'article francais est encore préféré par beaucoup d'acheteurs, malgré son
prix plus élevé, mais il n'en est pas moins vrai que le commerce de ces iles,
iadis tout entier entre nos mains, tend 5 yawer entre relles des Ailem-nds.
J'ai lu dans la relation de voyage d'un touriste qui a séjourné quelques
heures 5 Las Palmas, que le type des habitants rappelait celui du Maroc,
qu'on se croirait plut6t dans une ville arabe que dans une ville espagnole.
Les femmes, d'apre lui, semblent des Mauresques, et elles ont cquelque chose
d'africain dans les éclairs de leurs regardss. Je ne sais oii I'auteur, auquel je
fais allusion, a pu trouver ces ressemblances. Je connais le Maroc, j'ai traversé
plusieurs fois toute YEsgagne, et j'ai ia prétention de connaitre quelque peu
les Canaries. Je puis ajouter que, en ma qualité d'anthropoligiste, j'ai 6tudié
d'une maniere spéciale les types des populations de ces divers pays, et je
déclare bien haut qu'il n'a .été imgossible de constater cette ressemblance.
Les habitants de Las Palmas sont bien Espagnols, et je dirai meme que, pour
la plupart, ils ne présentent pas le type des Espagnols du sud; le type arabe
est aussi exceptionnel dans cette ville que dans tout le reste de l'archipel.
Par les coutumes, les gens de Las Palmas sont encore de vrais Européens.
Les femmes du peuple ont bien l'habitude de porter sur la tete non seulement
des camphores», mais des paniers ou les objets les plus divers; elles n'en sont
pas «araba» pour cela. Enes se vetent comme nos paysannes, a l'exception du
fodard dont ella se coiffent, en le liant sous le menton, ou du voile d'étoffe
blanche par lequel elles le remplacent les jours de fete. Quant aux gens aisés,
ils sont v$tir 1? 1'ei.iropéenne; les dames portent toujours des costumes a la
dernikre mode de Wris, et il en est fort peu qui n'aient remplacé la mantille
par le chapeau. On rencontre peut-&re moins d'individus en loques a Las
Palmas que dans les autres villes canariennes, ce qui ne veut pas dire que le ;
fait soit rare. Mais, en revanche, on y trouve une nombreuse société avec g
laquelle on peut avoir d'excellentes relations, et un Francais est assuré ;
d'etre bien accueilli partout. 5
La capitale de la Grande Canarie ne saurait donner une idée du reste e
de l'ile. 11 me faut faire accomplir au lecteur quelques excursions, et il en e
est de faciles. Une route de 6 kilometres mene au dela du port de La Luz; 3
une autre de 36 kilometres conduit jusqu'2 Galdar, en longeant, 5 une petite -
distante, toute la c6te septentrionale; une troisieme se dirige vers le centre -
0
m
de l'ile et arrive 2 San Mateo, 2 21 kilometres de Las Palmas; enfin une E E
dernikre, de 20 kilometres, atteint dans le sud la ville d'Aguimes. On peut
donce faire deja, en voiture, de longues promenades, et ce ne sont pas les
voitures de louage qui manquent. En dehors des diligences, qui partent au
moins deux fois par jour pour chaque direction, on se procure avec la plus k
grande facilite des tapissieres, voire meme des caleches. 11 faut s'attendre &
payer la location un prix élevé. Pour conduire un voyageur a Telde (11 kilo-metres)
et le ramener, un cocher ne demande pas moins de 20 ou 25 francs. n
Les chevaux de selle sont proportionndlement aussi chers. Mais lorsqu'on
fait un voyage 2 la Grande Canarie, ce n'est pas généralement pour se borner
2 visiter la capitale.
Les routes sont, il est vrai, des plus accidentees, et les petits chevaux du
pays, malgré leur vigueur, ne pourraient faire chaque jour de longs voyages,
L'ile ne renferme, en effet, que montagnes et ravins, et, parmi ces montagnes,
i1 en est qui atteignent 1.954 mktres d'altitude. Bien qu'elles soient orientées
dans toutes les directions, qu'elles décrivent les courbes les plus variées, on
peut dire cependant qu'il existe une chaineplus élevée que les autres, qui
court du nord-est au sud-ouest, et dont les points culminants oscillent entre
l.KX =&tres (L. Lechi?cil!z> et le chiffre que je viens de donner, qui est
atteint par la montagne de LGS Pechos. Dans cette arete centrale, on recontre
des villages jusqu'2 une altitude de prk de 1.300 metres; celui dYArtenara
est situé ii 1.279' m&tres, et il existe meme un hameau ii une plus gxande
hauteur.
Nous commencerons nos excursions par le nord; nous reviendrons au
port de La Luz en suivant la route, c'est-ii-dire en longeant la belle plage de
sable fin qui s'étend de Las Palmas jusqu'ii La Isleta. La ville s'avance loin,
de ce caté, et bientot les maisons arriveront jusqu'au nouveau port. Cepen-dant
on apercoit, du c6té des montagnes, des propriétés fort bien cultivées,
et qui approvisionnent la capitale et les navires de légumes de toutes sortes.
On y cuitive aussi des arbres 5 fruits, des céréales et des plantes d'ornement;
tout y vient tres bien. Ces propriétés ont de l'eau qu'on y amkne de fort
loin dans des aqueducs en maconnerie, et, avec de l'eau, on peut obtenir, aux
Canaries, toutes les récolles qu'on désire.
A peine a-t-on passé les dernikres maisons qu'on remarque de splendides
allées bordées, les unes de palmiers, les autres de bananiers, de caoutcheucs,
d'arbres ii cire, et bien d'autres. Au milieu de tout cela s'enchevetrent des
jasmins, des plumbagos, des bougainvilliers, des rosiers, des géraniums et
mille autres fleurs. Le propriétaire, don Cayetano Lugo, a montré 1ii ce que
peut faire, avec quelques soins, un homme de gofit.
Presque en face, se trouvent les eaux minérales de Santa-Catalina, eaux
sallnes que rendent de grands services dans certaines affections. Un peu plus
loin, sur le bord me'me de la mer, s'éleve le vieux fort de Santa-Catalina,
aujour'hui completement abandonné. Mais déjk, ii ce niveau, toute culture a
disparu: le sable a tout recouvert et menace meme d'envahir les belles pro-priétés
dont je viens de parler, si on n'oppose vite une digue ii l'invasion,
en plantant d'autres végétaux que les tazarins, déj5 en partie recouverts
par les dunes.
Aprh avoir franchi l'isthme de Guanarteme, qui ne mesure par 200 metres
de large dans sa partie la plus rétrécie, on rencontre la coulée de lave qui
termine La Isleta du c6té du sud. De ce caté aussi, le sable commence ii
gagner, mais il ne peut que recouvrir des scories absolument stériles. Cette
nappe de lave est parsemée de petits monticules de pierres qui sont autant
de tounbeaux; les anciens insulaires avaient 15 une immense nécropole qui
disparaitra rapidement. En 1878, il n'existait, au port de La LUE, que trois
ou quatre maisons; on y voyait de temps ii autre un campement de pecheurs
venus de Telde. Ces malheureux, le soir venu, plantent dans le sable quelques
pieux qui se rkunissent en haut; ils recouvrent cette charpente d'une natte
en feuilles de palmier, et ils ont un abri pour la nuit. Une simple natte,
étendue sur le sol, sert de Iit ii toute la famille. C'est un curieux spectacle
que de voir cette population déguenillée préparer en plein air le repas du
soir: les enfants se roulent sur le sable, les femmes nettoient, ii la lueur du
foyer, le poisson dont se composera le diner; des chiens se disputent les
débris, et, pendant ce temps, les hommes sont allongés sur la plage.
Si les pecheurs continuent k venir camper sur l'isthme de Guanartbme,
ib ont aujourd'hui de nombreux voisins; sur l'emplacement des anciem
tumulus s'élbve tout un village. De grands dépots de charbon, des magasins,
un hotei, des restaurants, cachent maintenant aux regards du voyageur une
partie de la vieille cité des morts.
Au del2 de ce village, on ne voit plus que les noires montagnes de La
Isleta qui se terminent, du c6té de la mer, en falaises abruptes. A une altitude
de 227 metres, se trouve la gukrite de la vigie, et, plus au nord, k 243 metres,
un phare de troisikme ordre, dont on apercoit les feux A 18 milles, dans un
arc de 257 degrés. Au milieu de cette masse sombre, on est tout étonné de
rencontrer une belle propriété avec ses étangs toujours pleins d'eau".
STASSANO: Las Palmas nel 1885 e oggi. Estratto dall'Ilustraziones
Italiana. N. 14 e 15, 16 y 23 de abril de 1890. Milán.
"11 viaggio dall'hghilterra a Las Palmas della Gran Canaria fu lungo piu
del solito ed eccezionalmente avventuroso: nel canale di San Giorgio riuscim-mo
salvo da una vollisione con uno scuner, che disgraziatamente colo al
fondo; e appena entrati nell'Atlantico, sgampammo ad una burrasca e alle
avarie della vecchia carcassa che a stento si reggeva, trascinandoci tra le
onde agitate e minacciose.
Ma se alla partenza ci sorprese un tempaccio da mettere i brividi addosso, .U.IL -> a .~l.,U,, ;' n c ~ ~ ~ Ui i apri,r;. ,aiera accolse =n&ici giarEi di p i i ,e1!'aL~pilis.
sima rada di Las Palmas. 11 cattivo tempo accompagnb il nostro Landana
per piu giorni, i quali furono per noi oitremodo lunghi e uggiosi; infine,
quando il mare comincib ad acchetarsi, il vento impetuoso e freddo a can-giarsi
in zeffiro dolce e tiepido, e il cielo, rasserenandosi, divenne azzurro
come il nostro d'Italia, scorgemmo alcuni gruppi di uccelletti, e una frotta di
gabbiani ci venne incontro annunziandoci la vicinanza alla terra.
Non tardb molto, di fatti, e approdammo di'isola «dello Legnama cosi
chiamata nei portolani medicei del XIV secolo, e anche oggi con voczbolo
spagnuolo e portoghese. Dispiacevolmente, quando il Landana gettb l'áncora
innanzi Funchal, avanzava appena un'ora di giorno, e quell'ora soltanto ci
fermammo in quella spiaggia affascinante, in riva a que1 giardino delizioso
che 6 Madera, la poetica terra, scoperta, vuol la leggenda, da due amanti,
e visitata asiduamente da esseri desiderosi di vivere o di morire tra i fiori
e nel bacio dell'amore.
Le impressioni che vi provai furano cosi svariate e fugaci che ne ho ora
debohente memoria come di un sogno e di visioni lontane. Mi resta sol
presente e vivo nella mente, con tutta la malinconica grandicsita della scena
circostante, l'aspetto che Madera prendeva a misura che ce ne riallontanavamo
su1 far della notte, dirigendoci alle Canarie: queda isoia incantevole, poc'anzi
inondata d'una pioggia d'oro e splendente di luce e di tinte caldissime,
abbrunandosi e calando sotto la distesa sconfinata, fmca e silenziosa delle
onde, mi sembrava un immenso astro ecl'ssato che tramontasse misteriosa-
_.,l>_.:i_iCi-iIA i
111e11t-e Ilrll OEC~IIU IIIL~IIILU.
All'indomani, tra le nubi rossastre e pavonazze che s'addensano al tra-monto
sull'orizzonte, ci apparve l'isola della Gran Canaria. Vi saremmo potuti
giuagere la sera medesima, se il nostro Landana, di buona memoria, fosse
stato un poco meno vecchio e stanco della traversata. Cosi dovei rinunciare
quella notte al piacere di riposa,re in terra e mi ritirai nella mia infelice
cabina aspettando di poter dormire piu tranquillamente dopo d o r a o due,
intranda in porto. Ma trascorse quelle due ore, notai che si stava sempre in
mareia, quantunque avznzassimo piu lentamente, e che sovente si cambiava
di direzione, quasi che s'avesse avuto ancora minor premura di arrivare e
s'andasse a zonzo.
Gli era che i1 capitano, tuttavia i,mpressionato da1 naufrajio, del quale fu
causa involontariamente, era divenuto timido a tal segno da giudicare arris-chiato
persino dar fondo di notte e in una notte di luna nel sicurissimo
ancoraggio della Luz, e preferiva percib aspettare il giorno in quella guisa ...
facendomi rollare maledettamente iu cuccetta.
Eravamo di gia avanti la citti di Las Palmas, ma il Landana non curandosi
del suo antico e poco praticabile scalo, seguiva immutabilmente la rotta verso
il nuovo della Luz; e cosi pure i miei sguardi, dalla bella marina dle vette
splendenti in azzurro o in oro su1 cielo trasparente, correvano rapidissimi,
per quelle balze, per quei campi e per quelle giogaie, non fissandosi nella
citta, che, vista donde io mi trovara, non attrae e seduce se non chi cerca
anelante, in una delle sue innumerevoli e imbiancate terrazze, 1' essere adorato
o desidera ravvivarvi il ricordo d'un amore passato.
Intanto, avanzando sempre verso il porto e lasciando indietro Las Palmas,
questa discostandosi dall'arida e giallognola erta cui s'appoggia, e presentan-dosi
lanciata nel mare sopra una lingua di terra, baciata dalle onde azzurrine
e sp~meggiznti,e contnrmtz & ~ ~ c c hdiie m we e da g r ~ p p id 'alte e svelte
palme, assumeva un'apparenza di gaiezza e di seduzione inattese: sembrava
una citta nata per incanto dalle ende e d'un tratto, intorno alle due elevate
ed oscure torri della Cattedrale, unico testimonio, parevano, di quanto dovea
esserci di antico e di triste fra quelle centinaia di bianche e ellegre casette.
Dopo il caseggiato principale della citta, passammo disotto il castello del
Rey che la domina, edificato a cavaliere della ripa sulla quale s'inerpicano
le ultime file dei suoi abituri pih poveri, diminuendo l'aspetto severo di que1
poggio coll'aria di spensierata e artistica miseria che spira da quei muriccioli
bianchissimi e dai cenci innumerevoli e variopinti disseminati d'ogni parte
all'intorno per la squallida scoscesa, sopra quegli oscuri sassi minaccianti
rovina e i pochi grami cespugli che vi nascono a stento.
Giunti nelle acque della Luz, ai piedi della «Isleta», le copiose dune di
sabbie giallicce, addossate, in vicinanza del porto, all'alta spianata litorale
e sparse sdla spiaggia sottostante, sembravano un fiume di arene d'oro che
scaturisse da quell'ultimo grado delle pendici riversandosi su1 mare e l'istmo
dell'isola maestasa, che non mi ristavo daI contemplare, portando nella fresca
atmosfera primaverile di quella poetica marina, il ricordo del vicino e ardente
Sahara. Un altro vapore e qualche goletta solamente vi trovammo ancorate;
se non che un principio di molo ben basato e un gran numero di cubi di
cemento situati geometricamente sopra un'ampia spianata, facevano conuscere
che cola sarebbe surto un gran porta In quell'anno poche case segnalavano
al largo l'ancoraggio della Luz, ma pero le carte nautiche mostravano chiara-mente
come con quanta saggezza 10 si fwre scdtn per hrne i! p o e i di rif~gie
dell'arcipelago e quanto avessero agito accortamente quei che vi avevano di
gi5 stabiliti grandi depositi di carbone.
Subito dopo l'arrivo, sbarcammo, ma, un go'perche credevamo che in
Las Palmas non vi fosse nulla da vedere e un po'perche in me ardeva potente
il bisogno giovanils dell'esplorare dovunque m'incontrassi fuori di casa mia,
e nell'insigne e caro capitano Bove, che io seguiva, dominava l'istessa neces-sita,
per l'abitudine contratta nelle sue precedenti e pih fortunate spedizioni
i: terre !ontñnissime, íx iie stsmmc. ün UUuii p i ü cl'ore su1 cammino cile
Altre volte ho visitato la Gran Canaria, ma d'allora in poi mi son dato
sempre fretta di giunger in citta, nella graziosa e gentile Las Palmas: agli
anfipodi e ai granchi ci pensava poi, e gli inviti importuni di quei monellacci
o non mi furono piu diretti, poichk gia dovea essere ben conosciuto da essi,
o non giunsero piu al mio udito. Qual differenza tra l'aspetto sonnolente che
presentava in quell'anno la marina della Luz e que110 che avea nell' estate
ultima, quando la mia goletta per approdarvi dovk manovrare abiimente fra i
diciotto grandi vapori che v'erano ancorati, imbarcando o sbarcando carbone,
e un'infinitk di piccole imbarcazioni che ne solcavano le acque in ogni dire-zione!
E quak differenza tra lo scarso movimento che c'era allora di vetture,
carri e gente sullo stradale del porto, e il via vai continuo che vi si incontra
oggi, creando un nuovo ed esteso quartiere alla Luz, dando origine a1 tramvia
presentemente in costruzione, e popolando d~ case, di ville e di alberghi quel
cammino: una vera desolazione sino a due o tre anni addietro!
In quel lido scoperto da italiani e primo approdo delle ardite caravelle
di Cristoforo Colombo, il nostro vessillo tricolore era quasi sconosciuto nel
1885; sovente esso vi sventola ora dall'alto dei nostri maggiori piroscafi
transatlantici; ed appunto, nel mio ultimo arrivo a Las Palmas, mi fu gratis-simo
salutarvi, risalutato, la nostra bella bandiera, incontrandomi al largo
dd!a Grar? Canaria, col ~ r i n d i o s ov apore La Duchessa di Genova".
MARGAREDT' ESTE:I n the Canaries with a camera. Londres. Págs.
185-190.
"If first impressions be the true ones, then Las Palmas - the capital of
Grand Canary-may safely lay claim to beauty.
1 can still remember - with aston.shment - how attractive the place
looked as we quietly glided into the harbour on our arrival; the almost
incredible blue of the water, flecked with patches of translucent green and
purple - the long !ine of orange sand-dunes stretching between the port and
the town - the delicate violet of the low hills behind them - the palm trees
upon the sea front, and the town itseli, its cathedral towers half veiled in
mist, clustering on the shore three miles away.
Neither was the illusion destroyed when we presently got into a tartana
and in the freshness of early morning drove along an almost deserted road
in the direction of the town untii we turned off into the grounds of the
hotel Santa Catalina.
It is not for a day or two that the true ugliness of one's surroundings is
borne in upon one-an ugliness which led one traveller to write of Las
Palmas as a place of barbed wire and cinders, but which to me will ever
be associated with dust, with heat, with the hideous steam-tram that cIanks
up aiid düwii the sea front, ejecting shuwers of blacks from its f ü m d , - am?
with the daily, endless suffering of the heavily-laden muleteams that pass
along the same road on their way to the docks.
1 have met peopie who have spent weeks in the Santa Catalina hotel
without once Ieaving its grounds-not even for an afternoon's perfunctory
sight-seeing in the town, for - as they truly remarked - what was the
pleasure of going outside? Nobody even pretends that there are any walks
at Las Palmas, while bumping along in a carriage through hideous scenery,
enveloped in dense ciouds of ciust, has charms for iew.
In the hotel you could at anyrate be comfortable and enjoy the fine
weather - and what else, might they ask, did you come to Grand Canary for?
The hotel is indeed an oasis in a weary land - a place of arcaded veran-dahs,
cool polished floors, wide balconies, and luxurious basket-chairs. The
tropical creepers outside, the bleached grass, the dusty spaces of earth round
the palm trees, and the hoopoes calling about the grounds, recalled an
Egyptian garden. Among the trees were tennis courts, and away at the
back-on the top of a yellow hill so devoid of vegetation that it seemed
to have been skinned-were golf links, but they were for the most part
deserted now, and the stillness that falls upon a southern pleasure resort
with the approach of the hot weather was already making itself felt, in spite
of the dozen or two of visitors who still lingered in the place.
For a while it was pleasant enough to idle away the days, and we should
perhaps have stayed longer at the Catalina if we had felt the heat less; but
durinp the first week of May the thermometer stood at 75O in the shade, and
our thoughts turned to the cooler climate of the Monte - Grand Canary's
hill station - six miles inland.
Alsu be it said rhar our i i ~ i n gfo r Las Paimas by no means increased upon
a nearer acquaintance with the place.
The favourite spot in the neighbourhood for picnics - Confital Bay -
can only be reached by driving through some of the most squalid slums of
the port and then picking on's way across a piece of waste ground strewn
with old tins and heaps of refuse; and the seashore