Letters from the Canary Islands

              FROM THE
iisriim^ nsaiiSJisso
m. S* iJrotone*
« Wilt thou fly
With laughing Autumn to the Atlantic isles,
And range with him the Hesperian fields, and see
Where'er his fingers touch the fruitful grove,
The branches shoot with gold ; where'er his step
Marks the glad soil, the tender clusters grow
With purple ripeness, and invest each hill
As with the blushes of an evening sky ? "
O' %?v
S^o^^7i :
GEORGE W. LIGHT.
Lyceum Press, 3 Cornhill.
1834.
37
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1834,
By DANIEL J. BROWNE,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts.
LETTER I.
Introduction,
©0 Hon. Thomas H. Perkins, John Parker, Hon. John Davis, Samuel Appleton,
Hon. Benjamin W. Crowningshield, Ebenezer Francis, Hon. Nathaniel Bow-ditch,
Henry Codman, Abbott Lawrence, Hon. Francis C. Gray, Amos Law-rence,
Dr. John C. Warren, Lucius M. Sargent, Hon. Stephen White, Dr.
William Ingalls, John Parker, Jr., Dr. Benjamin D. Greene, Dr. John Ware,
David Sears, Dr. Edward Warren, Epes S. Dixwell, Dr. Jerome V. C. Smith,
Gustavus Tuckerman, Dr. Winslow Lewis, Jr., Demming Jarves, Dr. Josiah
F. Flagg, Marcus Whiting, Dr. Martin Gay, Israel Thorndike, George W.
Pratt, Thomas C. Smith, William W. Stone, Charles H. Parker, George W.
Bond, Hon. John Lowell, Salem East India Marine Society, Charles G. Page,
Dr. William T. Harris, Dr. Paul Swift, William Cooper, Dr. John C. Jay.
emen :
As it was the request of several of the individuals
under whose auspices I have had the honor to act, that I
should draw up a popular account of the principal occur-rences
of my late voyage, 1 have availed myself of the
favor of bringing it before the public under the protection
of all your names. I have preferred uniting them in a
t^ connected series, by making a faithful abstract of my
gS Journal, which was invariably written on the spot, at the
S2 close of each day, taking advantage to introduce such re-q.^
marks or observations as might be illustrative or entertain-
^-^ ing. I am sensible that many imperfections will be found,
both as regards style and arrangement ; but as they claim
Q~ no great degree of merit, it is hoped that they will escape
<^ the severity of unsought, though, perhaps, deserved criti-cism.
CANARY ISLANDS.
Before entering into the career of my narrative, it may
be interesting to take a rapid survey of the regions which
I am about to describe, in relation to the state in which
they came from the hands of nature. Although situated
within five degrees of longitude, they exhibit the m.ost
striking and the most opposite contrasts ; and, from their
natural features and their proximity to Africa, they appear
to be strongly allied to that continent. Considered in re-lation
to their place on the globe, they possess an extraor-dinary
degree of natural beauty, and even of considerable
commercial and political value : while, at the same time,
they offer incalculable advantages to the painter, the anti-quary,
the naturalist, and above all, to the invalid.
The Canary Islands are particularly distinguished, from
the fact that they are situated nearly on the verge of the
torrid zone, and from the numerous volcanic eruptions to
which they have been exposed. On these circumstances
chiefly depend their physical peculiarities. Their inhabi-tants,
at least one half of the year, experience the intense
and almost perpendicular rays of the sun, which glares on
them with oppressive and often malignant beam ; and when
the periodical rains neglect to fall, he blasts the whole face
of nature, and overspreads her with sterility and desolation.
Then that same orb which cheers and enlightens the more
temperate regions of the earth, here becomes the most
deadly bane, and the inhabitants are reduced to the most
desperate famine, and often have to resort to the most un-natural
food. But what is still more dreadful, are those
internal conflagrations which so often burst forth, and
threaten the poor wretches below with impending ruin.
The traces of these awful events are conspicuous in every
portion of these islands. Indeed, " this part of the earth
seems already to have undergone the sentence pronounced
upon the whole of it ; but, like the phcenix, has risen
ajain from its own ashes in much greater beauty and
splendor than before it was consumed." Thus nature em-ploys
the same agent to create, as to destroy ; and what
has been regarded here as the deadliest consumer, has
proved in the end, to be the highest blessing.
In order to counteract the baneful influence of the tor-rid
sun, kind nature has devised suitable reparation, by
CANARY ISLANDS
fanning the earth with refreshing breezes, and by setting
apart an appropriate season for rain. Then, amid the roar
of winds, the glare of lightnings, and the crash of thunders
that seem to rend the skies, heaven opens all her windows
and pours down an unbroken flood, and deluges the earth.
The dry beds of the ravines and of the rivulets are now
converted into torrents which tumultuously rush down the
stupendous precipices, and lay the lower regions in com-plete
inundation. To this cause may be imputed, in a
measure, the amazing fertility which so particularly char-acterizes
these regions. Another fruitful source of irriga-tion,
or at least, of affording artificial inundation, are the
lofty mountains, which give bnth to numerous springs.
Their Alpine pinnacles are perforated by deep fissures,
constantly filled with perennial snows, which, on melting,
gush forth and run down their declivities, producing the
most luxuriant fertility. Their porous sides, too, are often
dashed with vapors, and imbibe large quantities of moisture,
which, flowing together, issues in the form of springs, and
has the same fertilizing influence. Hence it is, that vege-tation
attains that luxuriant growth which so remarkably
distinguishes these regions.
From the variety of soil and climate with which these
islands are favored, they produce, or rather are susceptible
of producing, almost every species of vegetable that ever
has been useful to man. In truth, the cultivated regions
may be compared to an earthly paradise. They have
often been painted in colors that pertain not to the imper-fect
abodes of the earth ; as the " Elysian Fields," or as
" islands destined to be the future mansions of the blessed."
It is here that we have an agreeable mixture of the olive
and the vine, the fig and the banana, the cocoa and the
orange, the apple and the pear, the peach and the almond,
the coffee-tree and the sugar-cane, the strawberry and the
bread-fruit, and a variety of other fruits, rising up promis-cuously
amidst countless herbs and flowers, tinted with
the most brilliant and delicate hues. It is here, too, that
the great dragon-tree displays its gigantic forms, and the
majestic date sends its summit into the sky. As we con-tinue
to ascend, we behold the stately chesnut and the
lofty pine, surrounded by small elegant trees and flowering
*1
6 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S .
shrubs, which embellish the way ; and at last, we reach
the more elevated tracts destined to perpetual sterility, the
borders of which, are not destitute of interest, nor of
beauty. As we approach the confines of these wastes,
numerous oases of arborescent heaths spring up in wild
and spontaneous profusion, and assume a truly pleasing
and smiling aspect.
Nor is the animal world destitute of interest here. Not-with.-
tanding the detached situation, and the narrow limits
of these islands, they formerly contained large bands of
wild beasts, most of the species of which, have either been
extirpated or reclaimed ; but they were not of such vast
numbers, nor of that savage character as those which per-vade
almost every tract of the adjacent continent. They
were for the most part creatures innocent, gentle, and
beautiful. Large packs of wild dogs of a ferocious char-acter
appear to have been found here ; but it is not allowed
that they constituted the true species in a state of nature,
but that they descended from dogs once domesticated,
which have relapsed into a state resembling that of primi-tive
wildness.
Although the limited range, the arid aspect, and the
fiery summits which these islands present, would cause one
to suppose that they are unfavorable to the existence and
propagation of the feathered tribes, yet many a cliff, many
a tree, and many a verdant spot, afford appropriate recesses
for this fairy race. To these islands we are indebted for
some of our sweetest songsters.
In descending into the briny regions, we find them peo-pled,
also, with immense tribes of the finny race, which
furnish an abundant supply of food. And all about the
shores are found myriads of crustacese, madrepores, shells,
and other products that ornament the deep. But happily,
the reptiles of these islands are very limited in their spe-cies,
and none of them are of a poisonous nature, and
consequently are regarded as harmless.
Nor is the insect race here less numerous or less pleas-ing
than the vegetat)le world ; yet some of them are pos-sessed
with many singular and even formidable character-istics.
Sometimes legions of locusts migrate from the con-tinent
to these islands, where their havoc is almost incredi-
CANARYISLANDS. 7
ble. They issue in clouds so dense that they darken the
air. In vain do the forlorn inhabitants ring their bells,
throw water, and devise other means to obstruct their
course ; but the irresistible mass moves forward, and eludes
every attempt to check their depredations. Whole fields
and vineyards enlivened with verdure, or laden with har-vest,
are ravaged by them without suffering to remain a
leaf or even a blade of grass. Sometimes in attempting to
cross the ocean, they are driven upon its surface by tem-pestuous
winds, and inconceivable numbers are driven
upon the shores dead, and the putrid exhalations arising
from them, have been regarded as noxious to health.
In conclusion, we come to man as he existed here at
the time of the arrival of the Spaniards at these islands.
At that period, the people here were known by the nam.e
of Guanches. In general, they inhabited natural caverns
and caves or huts, built of gross and unhewn materials,
constructed without the aid of mortar. They led, in many
respects, a truly savage life, and hardly possessed a knowl-edge
of the earliest rudiments of art. Although the cereal
grasses were known to them, agriculture was in its rudest
and most uncultivated state, and they subsisted chiefly on
parched barley flour and goats' milk, and fed in common
with dogs. They deposited their dead in caverns for the
purpose of inhumation, and even possessed the art of em-balming,
which tend to prove that they descended, or had
some knowledge of the Caucasian tribes. But a profound
silence reigns with regard to their origin, in which the
world probably must remain forever in darkness.
D. J. B.
Boston, May, 1634.
LETTER II.
Voyage from New -York to Teneriffe.
After making due preparations for a long voyage,
we weighed anchor and set sail from New-York at sunrise
on Tuesday the 9th instant, for the island of Teneriife.
The morning was rainy, and the wind in an unfavorable
quarter. We worked our way, however, with little diffi-culty
through the Narrows, and about mid-day found our-selves
just launching into the broad and interminable ocean.
About this time the wind came round to the north-west;
the clouds dispersed, and the sun burst forth with fervid
brightness. A gentle breeze filled our sails, and we
directed our course east-by-south, passing by the United
States frigate Brandywine, which was proudly riding at
anchor, and waving her stars and stripes. As we ad-vanced,
the adjacent shores and high lands were fast
receding from our view, and at four o'clock they gravely
sunk behind the waves, and were seen no more.
It is difficult to describe the sensations which crowd
upon one as he is bidding adieu to his home and native
land, though but for a limited period of time ; still more
difficult is it to pourtray the painful emotions that burst
upon one as he is taking the last glimpse of his native
shores, leaving behind him all his friends, his kindred, and
his country, and this, for an indefinite period—and per-haps,
forever. Of the first of these feelings I have had
many to contend with ; of the latter, none before the
present.
During the last fifteen years of my life, my pursuits have
led me over a considerable portion of our country, as well
as other parts of America. I have travelled by land and
by sea ; have been separated from home, from relatives,
10 CANARY ISLANDS.
from friends, and have often been impressed with emotions
that weighed heavily on my heart. But then I was still
to remain in a land, and mingle with a people, whom I
could boast as my own ; a land far-famed in greatness
;
'* a nation whom I was taught to regard as no less free than
brave, no less intelligent than virtuous, and no less high-minded
than powerful." But whither now ? To regions
fair and delightful on the one hand, decked with ancient
monuments of genius and of art, renowned for modern
works of grandeur, and possessed by people, free, enlight-ened,
and intelligent. On the other hand, to regions over-shadowed
with despotism and superstition ; to nations im-bued
with frightful prejudices, degraded and demoralized
to the last degree, and totally inaccessible to persuasion or
to civilization. *
The breeze continued to heighten, and at night v,-e
were swiftly ploughing our way through the pitchy deep,
marking out a furrow of liquid fire, which, at one moment,
was brilliant and dazzling—at another, tranquil and pearly.
These moveable lights were grouped in endless varieties.
Here, myriads of luminous points like little stars appeared
floating upon the surface, and then flowing together, form-ing
one vast sheet of light. Then the scene became more
tumultuous ; the refulgent waves hove up and broke in
shining foam. At other times, appeared large sparkling
bodies, resembling the forms of fishes pursuing each other,
alternately disappearing and bursting anew.
The explanation of this phenomenon has long attracted
the attention of philosophers. Valisneri, Rigaud, and
Dicquemare, have shown, that on several occasions, this
light was produced by a little animal called the glow-worm
of the sea. It has a body extremely thin and transparent,
is possessed with astonishing activity, and emits a dazzling
and vivid light. All the zoophytes and mollusc a seem to
be phosphorescent in a greater or a less degree. The
observations of Peron, and of Langsdorff confirm this ex-
* It may be here remarked, that after passing a number of weeks at TenerifFe, I
touched on the west coast of Africa, and afterwards visited several parts of Spain,
France, Sicily and the Belearic Islands, and intended travelling to Italy, Greece,
Turkey and Egypt ; but on reaching Sicily, imperative circumstances compelled a
speedy return.
CANARY ISLANDS. 11
planation of luminous phenomena in the sea, and it seems
to be the only one that can be admitted as general. It
appears that this emission of phosphorus arises from the
excited state of the vital spirits in these animals, and that
it is chiefly at the moment of amorous enjoyment that they
cast forth so brilliant a light.
Fougeroux, Canton, Forster and other accurate ob-servers,
while they agree with respect to the existence of
glow-worms, think that the light of the sea, when it is
tranquil, and as it were united with the water, originates
from the decomposition of vegetable and animal substan-ces
collected together into it, and which, in putrifying,
emit their phosphorus. Light, of this description, is chiefly
observed in long calms, and after great heat. The spawn
of fish, also, possesses the power of emitting a certain
light. This marine phosphoric light has been observed to
be the most powerful during a storm, which has given rise
to the belief that the phenomenon was produced by the
friction of the marine currents. Upon this topic I will
conclude in quoting a reflection from Newton. " Do not
all solids," says this philosopher, " when they are heated
beyond a certain degree, emit a portion of light, and is not
this emission produced by the vibratory motion of their parti-cles
? And do not all the bodies which abound in earthy and
particularly sulphureous particles, throw forth light as often
as these particles are sufficiently agitated ? May not this
agitation proceed from heat, friction, putrefaction, from
vital motion, or from some other cause ? It is thus that
the sea-water in a stormy tempest becomes luminous."
At sea, on board of the Panope, )
Thursday, July 11, 1833. \
LETTER III.
Voyage to Teneriffe Continued.
During the week past we have been sailing under the
most propitious circumstances. We have made 20° of
longitude, and are now in the Gulf Stream, receiving its
utmost benefits. We entered it on the 11th instant, at
four o'clock in the afternoon, which was obvious from an
increase of temperature of the water. A thermometer
being immersed, indicated 72° F.,* two degrees higher
than at noon of the same day. Yesterday the temperature
of the atmosphere at noon, in latitude 40° 4' N., and
longitude 57° 41' W. was 82°, and that of the ocean at
the surface 80°, which is 15° higher than it was near
Sandy Hook, at noon on the day of our departure.
This great current may be explained as follows :
—
'' Between the tropics, especially from the coast of Senegal
to the Caribbean Sea, there is a stream that always flows
from east to west, and which is named the Equinoctial Cur-rent.
Its mean rapidhy may be estimated at ten or eleven
miles in twenty-four hours. This movement of the waters,
which is also observed in the Pacific Ocean, having a
direction contrary to that of the earth's rotation, is supposed
to be connected with the latter only in so far as it changes
into trade-winds those aerial currents from the poles, which,
in the lower regions of the atmosphere, carry the cold air
of the high latitudes towards the equator ; and it is to the
general impulse which these winds give to the surface of
*It will be unrlcrstood that the variations of temperature expressed in this work,
are noted after Fahrenheit's scale, except otherwise specified.
2
14 CANARY ISLANDS,
the ocean that the phenomenon in question is to be
attributed.
" This current carries the waters of the Atlantic towards
the Mosquito and Honduras coasts, from which they move
northward, and passing into the Gulf of Mexico, follow
tlie bendings of the shore from Vera Cruz to the mouth of
the Rio del Norte, and from thence to the mouths of the
Mississippi and the shoals at the southern extremity of
Florida. After performing this circuit, it again directs
itself northward, rushing with great impetuosity through
the Straits of Bahama. At the end of these narrows, in
the parallel of Cape Canaveral, the flow, which rushes
onward like a torrent, sometimes at the rate of five miles
an hour, runs to the north-east. Its velocity diminishes
and its breadth enlarges as it proceeds northward. Be-tween
Cape Biscayo and the Bank of Bahama, the width is
only 5'2 miles, while in 23.5° of lat. it is 50; and in the
parallel of Charleston, opposite Cape Henlopen, it is from
138 to 173 miles, the rapidity being from three to five miles
an hour where the stream is narrow, and only one mile as
it advances towards the north. To the east of Boston and
in the meridian of Halifax the current is nearly 276 miles
broad. Here it suddenly turns towards the east ; its west-ern
margin touching the extremity of the great bank of
Newfoundland. From this to the Azores it continues to
flow to the E. and E.S.E., still retaining part of the im-pulse
which it had received nearly 1150 miles distant in
the Straits of Florida. In the meridian of the Isles of
Corvo and Flores, the most western of the Azores, it is
not less than 552 miles in breadth. From the Azores it
directs itself towards the Straits of Gibraltar, the island of
Madeira, and the Canary Isles. To the south of Madeira
we can distinctly follow its motion to the S.E. and S.S.E.,
bearing on the shores of Africa, between Capes Cantin
and Bojador. Cape Blanco, which, next to Cape Verd,
farther to the south, is the most prominent part of that
coast, seems again to influence the direction of the stream ;
and in this parallel it mixes with the great equinoctial cur-rent
as already described.
CANARY ISLANDS. 15
*' In this manner, the waters of the Atlantic, between the
parallels of 11° and 43°, are carried round in a continual
whirlpool, which Humboldt calculates must take two years
and ten months to perform its circuit of 13,118 miles.
This great current is named the Gulf Stream. Off the
coast of Newfoundland a branch v^eparates from it, and
runs from S.W. to N.E. towards the coasts of Europe."
This current is of great utility to the navigator, who may
judge, with a degree of certainty, of his situation, and of
the proximity of his approach towards the coast of the
United States. When he enters the borders of it, the in-creased
temperature of the water, its strong saltness, its
intense azure color, and the large quantities of sea-weed
(Fiicus) which floats along its surface, as well as the ele-vated
heat of the surrounding atmosphere, all indicate,
even in winter, that lie has reached this noble Gulf
On the 11th instant, in latitude 39° 54', and in longitude
69° 41', I observed some fragments of fucus, a kind of sea-weed
which grows on submarine rocks, as well as three
species of medusae, floating in a south-westerly direction,
propelled by the counter current near the western edge of
the gulf
The medusae are animals consisting of a tender gelati-nous
mass of different fibres, supplied with arms or tentacu-lar
processes proceeding from their lower surface. They
are marked with various colors, which, by the reflection of
the sun's rays, create a beautiful contrast with the azure
tint of the ocean. The larger species when touched by the
hand, cause a slight stinging and redness ; hence they are
commonly called sea-nettles. By gently agitating them in
the dark, they will emit light. '' When a very irritable in-dividual
is placed on a tin plate, and the latter is struck
with a piece of metal, the vibrations of the tin are sufficient
to make the animal shine. Sometimes, on galvanizing
medusse, the phosphorescence appears at the moment when
the chain closes, although the exciters are not in direct
contact with the body of the subject. The fingers, after
touching it, remain luminous for two or three minutes.
Wood, on being rubbed with medusse, becomes luminous,
and after the phosphorescence has ceased, it may be
16 CANARY ISLANDS.
rekindled by passing the dry hand over it ; but when the
light is a second time extinguished it cannot be repro-duced."*
These animals are supposed to constitute the
chief food of cetaceous fish.
I observed another beautiful class of animals floating
down the Gulf, called by seamen, the Portuguese man-o-war
(PliJ/saUa jidagica. Lam.) They resemble an ob-loncr
bladder, elevated superiorly into an oblique and
wrinkled crest, and furnished beneath, near one of the
extremities, with a variety of cylindrical, fleshy productions,
terminated at different lengths, which unite with the body.
They float at will, upon the surface of the water, most fre-quently
when it is calm, employing the crest for a sail ;
and when quietly gliding along, the rays of the sun drop
upon them, and produce a beautiful irridescent appear-ance.
By touching these animals with the hand, they dis-charge,
as a means of defence, a gaseous fluid, which stings
and burns like the sea-nettle. They are found in all
tropical seas.
On the morning of the 14th instant, thousands of flying-fish
(Exocetus volitans. Lin.) were seen darting through
the air in a direct line opposite to the waves. These fish
seem to lead the most miserable existence. In their own
element, they are incessantly pursued by dolphins and
other fish of prey. If they endeavor to avoid them by hav-ing
recourse to the air, they either meet their fate from
gulls or other predatory birds, or are forced down the
mouths of the inhabitants of the deep, which keep pace
below with their aerial excursions. The head of this fish
is scaly, their body whitish, and their belly angular. Their
pectoral fins are very large, which enable them to raise
themselves from the water, and fly to a considerable dis-tance,
till their fins become dry, and then they descend
into the water. They are sometimes found in northern
seas, but are the most common between the tropics. When
taken, they serve for excellent food.
In calm weather, I have constantly seen the pilot-fish
(Gasterosteus ductor. Lin.) at our stern. These fish
* Humboldt.
C A N A R Y I S L A N D S . 17
derive their name from the fact that they follow vessels to
seize upon whatever may drop from them ; and as a similar
habit is observed in the shark, it has been said that these
small fishes serve as a guide to it. They are of a bluish
color, having broad bands running transversely across their
sides, of a much deeper hue, and are seldom found more
than ten or twelve inches in length. They are considered
by some as excellent food.
Tuesday, July 16th, 1833.
2*
LETTER IV.
Voyage to Teneriffe Continued,
We progress in our voyage with every success that
could be anticipated. The weather has been fine and
agreeable, except in the night of the 21st instant, when
we were visited, at midnight, by a torrent of rain. The
lightning gleamed with awful and vivid flashes, and the
thunder rolled in quick successive peals from clouds imme-diately
over our heads. The morning following, the
clouds had passed away, and pleasant gales, as usual, con-tinued
to waft us along.
The flying-fish are still seen skipping over the dark-blue
waves, and occasionally I catch a glimpse of the parrot-fish,
commonly, but improperly called the dolphin, which is
quite another sort of fish, (DcJpldnus clcJplus. Lix.) and
belongs to the whale family. The parrot-fish (^ Co7'_?/^/z^««
cceruJca. Lix.) has a head of an odd structure, resembling
thatof the spermaceti v/hale. The mouth is small, and
each mandible is armed with a single row of even
teeth, so that they appear to be entire bones. Its irides
are of a bright red ; on the back is a long fin indented
on the edge ; behind the gills are two more fins : also
one under the abdomen, and another near the extreme
end. The tail is forked, and the color of the whole
fish, when alive, is entirely blue. It is taken in great
abundance on the coast of the Bahama Islands, and
is found in most of the seas between the tropics. It is
considered by some, as delicate food.
Scarcely any other beings endowed with life, have
come under notice, except petrels and sternge, or sea-swallows.
The last appellation takes its name from their
excessively long and pointed wings, and from their forked
20 CANARY ISLANDS.
tail, which renders their flight and carriage analogous to
those of swallows. Their bills are pointed, compressed,
and straight, without curve or projection ; their nostrils,
situated near the base of the bill, are oblong and pierced
quite through ; the membranes that unite their toes, are
deeply emarginate, in consequence of which, they swim
but seldom. They fly over the waves in every direction
with great velocity, uttering, at the same time, shrill cries,
and skilfully dipping from the water mollusca and small
fishes upon which they feed.
The petrils are particularly designated by sailors under
the name of Mother Carey's Chickens. They are also
sometimes called Storm Finches, Stormy Petrels, and
Devil's Birds. The most common species on the Atlantic
is the Thalassidroma wilsonii of Bonapart. It is about
the size of a common swallow, and has the general appear-ance
of that bird. Its color is brown, except the rump,
w^hich is white, and a white line on the end of the great
wing-coverts. At all seasons they keep far out at sea, and
often skip along the hollows of the waves with incredible
swiftness, and sometimes light upon their summits, braving
the utmost fury of the tempests. As they appear to run on
the surface of the water, which they effect by the aid of
their wings, they are called petrels, from the allusion of
Peter's walking on the water.
" These petrels are said to breed in great numbers on the
rocky shores of the Bahama and the Bermuda Islands,
and along some parts of East Florida and Cuba. Mr.
Audubon informs me* that they also breed in large flocks
on the mud and sand islands off Cape SabJe, in Nova
Scotia, burrowing downward from the surface to the depth
of a foot or more. They also employ the holes and cavi-ties
of rocks near the sea for this purpose. The eggs,
according to Mr. Audubon, are three, white and translu-cent.
After the period of incubation, they return to feed
their young only during the night, with the oily food which
they raise from their stomachs. At these times they are
heard through most part of the night, making a continued
Professor Xuttall.
CANARY ISLANDS. 21
cluttering sound like frogs. In June and July, or about
the time that they breed, they are still seen out at sea for
scores of leagues from the land, the swiftness of their flight
allowing them daily to make their vast excursions in quest
of their ordinary prey ; and hence, besides their suspicious
appearance in braving storms, as if aided by the dark
Ruler of the air, they breed, according to the vulgar opin-ion
of sailors, like no other honest bird, for, taking no time
for the purpose on land, they merely hatch their egg under
their wings, as they sit on the water.
" The food of this species, according to Wilson, appears
to consist, as he says, of the gelatinous spora of the Gulf-weed
(Fucus natans. Lin.) as well as small fish, barna-cles,
and probably, many small mollusca. Their flesh is
rank, oily, and unpleasant to the taste. Their food is
even converted into oil by the digestive process, and they
abound with it to such a decree, that according to Brun-nick,
the inhabitants of the Fero Isles make their carcases
to serve the purpose of a candle, by drawing a wick through
the mouth and rump, which being lighted, the flame is for
a considerable time supported by the fat and oil of the
body.-"'
In passing over the vast and watery deep, it is wondered
why its inhabitants do not more frequently exhibit them-selves
; for often whole days pass by without observing
anything possessed with life, and even weeks, except now
and then a shoal of porpoises, making their "uncouth
gambols" around the bow of our vessel, and the grampus
slowly throwing his unwieldy form above the water, or the
voracious shark, darting like a spectre just below its sur-face.
But when we reflect on the immensity of the ocean,
of its immeasurable depths, which probably extend as far
below^ its surface as the highest of our mountains are ele-vated
above it, and when we consider that its bottom is
diversified with mountains, valleys and plains, how vast are
the spaces susceptible of affording adaptation and suste-nance
to countless tribes of beings. And when we look
around us, we see every mountain and marsh, every wil-derness
and wood, teeming whh myriads of living crea-tures,
all adapted to their respective situations, and pos*
oo CANARY ISLANDS
sessed with their proper instincts and enjoyments. And
if we admit that
" Full many a £fem of purest ray serene
The dark unfatliomed caves of ocean bear,"
we must allow from the analogy of reason, that innu-merable
clas.->es of animals inhabit this vast abyss, thous-ands
of which, never have appeared to the eye of man.
And yet, who is there that can doubt the existence of an
outre monster of the deep, when deduced from creditable
authority ? Who is there that has ever descended these
briny floods, and rambled about the '' mermaid's cells,"
the " triton's halls," and the " sea-nymph's coral bowers,"
to explore and enrol the wonders of the mighty deep?
According to Kircher, the celebrated diver, Pescecola,
whom the emperor Frederic II. employed to descend into
the Straits of Messina, saw there with horror, enormous
polypi attached to the rocks, the arms of which, being
several yards long, were sufficient to strangle a man. If
this can be credited, we have as much reason to believe in
the present existence of the sea-serpent, of the great levia-than,
or of the behemoth.
Tuesday, July 23, 1833.
LETTER V.
Voyage to Teneriffe Continued
At length, wafted by propitious gales, we begin to
approach our destined haven. Since my last date, the
weather has been incomparably delightful, and each day
closed by evenings of tranquil beauty. The vivid colors
which gild the setting sun, the fantastic forms that mark
the golden clouds, and the sublimities of a starlight even-ing
at sea, inspire emotions sufficient to compensate the
most reluctant voyager for all the endurances of an Atlan-tic
passage.
On the morning of the 5th instant, we observed the Isle
of Madeira eight or ten leagues to the south of us, the sum-mit
of which, was distinctly seen above the clouds that
were hanging about its sides ; and low in the south-east
were to be seen the peaked tops of Porto Santo just peep-ing
above the horizon. We slowly glided along during
the day, and the next morning were in sight of the
Desertas, which lay a few leagues to the southward. At
our left hand was Porto Santo displaying its ragged sum-mits,
and near by, at our right, Madeira, which exhibited
to us a friendly look, and seemed once more to reconnect
us with our mother earth. It wore a truly pleasing and
picturesque appearance as we passed by. The top of the
mountain was incessantly enveloped in light cumulous
clouds ; its sides, peculiarly broken and rugged, consisted
of dark arid ridges, destitute of verdure, alternated by
deep fertile valleys. At the bottom of the descent was the
city of Fanchal, in the vicinity of which, were innumerable
sloping vineyards, interspersed with gentlemens' seats, and
the more humble huts of the vine-dressers, whose whit-ened
walls conspicuously diversified the face of nature.
24 CANARY ISLANDS.
For some evenings past, I have observed an immense
number of shooting stars, leaving behind them a sparkling
train. As we advanced southward, they appeared to
increase in brilliancy and in numbers. The same fact
was observed by Humboldt, who remarks that these me-teors
are more common and more luminous in certain
regions of the earth than in others. He has nowhere seen
them more frequent, than in the vicinity of the volcanoes
of Quito and in that part of the South Sea which washes
the shores of Guatimala. Between the tropics, and in fact
all warm climates, they generally leave a train behind them,
which sometimes remains luminous for ten or twelve
seconds. At other times, they seem to explode and dis-charge
thousands of brilliant sparks. They are much
lower here than in high latitudes, and are very seldom seen
beneath a cloud. They are most frequently observed in
clear, serene weather, and move in the direction which
the wind blows ; but this is not always the case, for I have
noticed them when the sky was totally overcast, and to
move in various directions about the same time, and in
one instance I observed one in the day-time, which passed
between me and a dark-blue cloud.
Although these shooting or falling stars are a common
phenomenon, their great distance and transient nature
have hitherto frustrated every attempt to ascertain their
cause. However, the connection of these meteors with an
active state of the atmospheric electricity, is certain from
observation ; and we have more reason to consider them
as electric sparks, than as solid or fluid matter in the act
of combustion.
During most of the time this week back, we have been
visited by light baffling winds, and often by perfect calms,
which afforded me at times, no small share of amusement.
Every body who has been at sea, has heard sailors whistle
during a calm, in order to " raise the wind," which many
of them attribute to the agency of some unknown power ;
but some of our modern theorists impute it to a certain
sympathy existing between the air and the sound resem-bling
that of the whistling of the wind.
It is a well known fact in acoustics, that harmonic
sounds may be effected by a sympathetic action conveyed
CANARY ISLANDS. 25
by the air ; for example—" a body of singers with great
power of voice, are able to break into pieces a large tum-bler
glass, by singing close to it its proper fundamental
note ; and it is from the same sympathetic communication
of vibrations, that two pendulum clocks fixed to the same
wall, or two watches lying upon the same table, will take
the same rate of going, though they would not agree with
one another, if placed in separate apartments. Mr. Elli-cott
even observed, that the pendulum of the one clock
will stop that of the other ; and that the stopped pendulum
will, after a certain time, resume its vibrations, and in its
turn, stop the vibrations of the other pendulum." * To a
similar cause they will say, may be attributed an increase
of wind from the sympathy existing between the air and
the whistling sound resembling that of the wind.
Thursday, August 8, 1833.
*Dr. Brewster.
LETTER VI
Arrival at Orotava.
Early on the morning of the 10th instant, we had
approached the island of Teneriffe, sufficiently near to
discern trees, houses and vineyards, and the Peak of Teyde,
illuminated by the earliest rays of the sun, was seen just
over our heads. Before we had come within a league's
distance of the port^ we were hailed by the custom-house
authorities, who, after making the usual inquiries, and
receiving our passports, pronounced upon us a quarantine
of eight days, and ordered us to anchor a mile from the
shore, with the privilege of landmg at the lazaretto as often
as might be necessary. Here we remain anchored in 40
fathoms of water, enjoying a cool sea-breeze of 75°, w^hile
on shore the thermometer indicates a temperature of 86°
in the shade, and from 100° to 120° in the sun.
On first descrying the features of a new country, one
cannot express the emotions with which he is inspired.
His eyes are wont to glance with eagerness upon the many
objects that are brought to view, and amidst his agitation,
everything, although regarded as common before, now
wears the aspect of something new ; but after he becomes
more familiar with them, they assume their true character,
and he can hardly conceive them to be the same.
On first reaching the shore, I was particularly struck
with the singular appearance of the Euphorbia canariensis
of Linnseus. It is an herbaceous perennial shrub, sending
forth slender succulent stalks from ten to twelve feet in
length, and having from four to five sides, armed with sharp
prickles. It puts forth quadrupetalous flowers of a white-ish
or yellow color, and its light green stalks form an
28 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S .
agreeable contrast with the dark stones and earth upon
which it usually grows.
All the shores and ravines in this vicinity are lined with
basalts and other igneous rocks, in which may be found
crystals of hornblende, and in some instances, olivine and
transparent pyroxene, the latter occurring generally, in
six-sided prisms, and of an olive-green tint. I observed,
also, large quantities of volcanic sand along the shore, con-taining
minute fragments of the same materials as the
neighboring rocks are composed. From the reverberation
of this sand, and the black, arid rocks with which the
shores of this island are formed, may be imputed the
intense heat to which they are exposed. This sand, in the
middle of a hot day, is insupportable to the hands or bare
feet for any length of time.
From the hazy state of the atmosphere, we did not dis-cern
the Peak before the 9th instant, at mid-day, which
was then at sixty miles' distance. When it first came un-der
our observation, the horizon below it, as far as the eye
could reach, exhibited only a wide expanse of water, so
that the summit appeared like a thin blue vapor, till its
stationary position fixed our attention. It was soon con-cealed
from view, and was seen no more until half past
three in the afternoon, when its conical head was tower-ing
far above the clouds. I now availed myself of making
a trigonometrical measurement of its height, which I did
by throwing the log, and noting the velocity of the vessel,
and the time it sailed between two stations, to determine
a base ; and employed two vertical angles of the summit of
the Peak, one at each station. By my calculation I found
it to be elevated 1-2,352 feet above the ocean, which is
considerably more than the average measurements that
have been made by different observers, showing at once
the uncertainty of this mode of measurement of mountains.
For want of other matters of interest, I may here take a
glance of the physical observations since my departure,
relating to the air and the ocean, with some remarks from
other sources.
Temperature of the Air.—The great basin of the
Northern Atlantic Ocean, between Europe, Africa, and
CANARY ISLANDS. 29
America, exhibits very different degrees of temperature,
but very slow in its changes. In passing from Sandy
Hook to this place the increase of temperature has been
only 3-5°. The maximum observed during the voyage
was 82°, the minimum 73°, with a mean of 76-1°. Hum-boldt,
in travelling from Spain to South America, in July,
1799, observed a gradual increase from 50° to 77°, the
maximum being only 799°. In comparing the observa-tions
of several navigators, I find that the thermometer has
not been known to rise, in the open air at sea, above 93°
in any place between the tropics of either hemisphere ;
while in corresponding latitudes of the continents of Asia,
Africa and America, it attains a temperature of 120°, 130°,
and even 140°.
The gradual increase of temperature during a voyage
from the temperate to the torrid zone, is highly conducive
to the health of voyagers, as it prepares them, by degrees,
for the intense heat which they have to encounter. This
change is attributed, in a measure, to the evaporation of
the water, increased by the wind and the waves, together
with the property possessed by transparent liquids of ab-sorbing
very little light at their surface.
Temperature of the Sea.—From New York to this
place, the temperature of the ocean has been, in general,
uniform in its increase, although inequalities have occur-red,
caused by the Gulf Stream. The mean temperature
has been 74-4^ ; maximum 80°, and minimum 660^. In
the inter-tropical seas, there is everywhere a great uni-formity
in the maximum of heat, which varies, according
to Humboldt, from 82° to 84-5°. This proves that the
ocean is in general warmer than the atmosphere in direct
contact with it, the mean temperature of which, near the
equator, is from 78*8° to 80'6°. As sea-water is a bad
conductor of heat, its temperature changes less suddenly
and less easily than that of the atmosphere ; hence the
cause of its uniformity. Besides, the visible solar rays
cannot heat the bottom of the sea, as they penetrate only
to the depth of about 700 feet. Beyond that limit, the sea
receives no more light. The temperature of the depth of
the ocean would appear, then, to follow that of the tempe-
*3
30 CANARY ISLANDS.
ratiire of the interior of the globe in different latitudes.
But it has been proved by experiments, that the tempera-ture
of the sea, at great depths, diminishes in a constant
progression ; from which fact, some philosophers have
maintained that the bottom of the ocean is actually a bed
of ice. But, unfortunately for them. Count Rumford has
shown by experiment, that ice is always formed at the sur-face
of the water, and that, except to a certain extent
within the polar regions, it cannot exist at the bottom of
the ocean.
Intensity of the Color of the Sky.—In travelling
from the higher latitudes to the torrid zone, I have re-peatedly
observed an increase of the azure tint of the sky,
and in the same parallel, fainter at sea than when on land.
The latter circumstance is owing to the quantity of aque-ous
vapor which is constantly rising from the ocean to the
upper regions of the atmosphere. Hence, in all latitudes,
the intensity of the color of the sky diminishes from the
zenith to the horizon, and this nearly in arithmetical pro-gression.
Color of the Sea.—The color of the sea varies very
much in appearance, but it is generally of a deep, bluish-green,
which becomes less intense as we approach the
coasts. This apparent color of the sea may be attributed
to the same causes that impart the blue shade to the dis-tant
mountains, and to the sky its azure hue. The other
shades in the color of the sea, depend on causes which
are local, and som.etimes illusory. It is said that the Medi-terranean,
in its upper part, sometimes assumes a purple
tint. In the Gulf of Guinea, the sea has a whitish ap-pearance,
and around the Maldive Islands, it is black.
The Vermeille, or Vermillion Sea, near California, has
received its name from the red color which it bears. I
have observed a phenomenon similar to the latter about
the coast of Florida.
Humboldt observes, in his travels from Spain to South
America, that in fine calm weather, the color of the sea
was found to be equal to 33°, 38°, and sometimes 44° of
Saussure's cyanometer, although the sky was very pale,
CANARY ISLANDS. 31
and scarcely attained 14° or 15°. " When, instead of di-recting
the apparatus to a great extent of open sea, the
observer fixes his eyes on a small part of its surface viewed
through a narrow aperture, the water appears of a rich
ultra-marine color. Towards evening, again, when the
edge of the waves, as the sun shines upon them, is of an
emerald green, the surface of the shaded side reflects a
purple hue. Nothing is more striking than the changes
which the color of the sea undergoes under a clear sky, in
the midst of the ocean and in deep water, when it may be
seen passing from indigo-blue to the deepest green, and
from this to slate-gray. The blue is almost independent
of the reflection of the atmosphere. The inter-tropical
seas are, in general, of a deeper and purer tint than those
of high latitudes, and the ocean often remains blue, when
in fine weather, more than four-fifths of the sky are cover-ed
with light and scattered clouds of a white color."
At anchor in Quarantine, Port Orotava, )
Thursday, August 15, 1833. \
LETTER VII
Excursion to Santa Cruz.
Having just obtained my emancipation, I am happy once
more to enjoy the sweets of freedom. On the ISth instant,
at mid-day, I was released from quarantine, and conducted
by some soldiers directly to the Governor of this port,
who ordered me to present myself, immediately, before the
Governor General, at Santa Cruz which is situated about
thirty miles from here. It being impracticable to reach
that place on that evening, my journey was postponed
until the next day. Early the ensuing morning I set off
on horseback, and just after leaving this town, ascended a
steep hill, in a winding direction ; and all of a sudden
there burst upon me a most charming view of the Valley
of Orotava. The scene before me was so enchanting, that
a description of it, to bear even a faint resemblance, would
appear like romance. It consists of an elevated slope,
containing about four square leagues, and is abruptly
hemmed on three sides by a range of lofty mountains
which intersect the island. The other side is bounded by
the ocean, the shores of which are bold and precipitous at
all points, and are constantly dashed by the snow-white
surf Numerous rivulets and springs gush forth from the
foot of the mountains, and after rushing dowai the ravines
and forming beautiful cascades, are employed in irrigating
and fertilizing the soil, and in turning mills.
This broad champaign is interspersed with compact
villas and detached dwellings, which are encompassed by
vineyards and corn-fields, that yield at once the choicest
and the most varied fruits. In short, " it is a vast garden,
decked out in aromatic groves, which realize the heau
ideal of Paradise." There can be but few spots on the
34 CANARY ISLANDS.
globe that present a spectacle more beautifully romantic
and wildly picturesque than the Valley of Orotava.
After an hour's ride over a fertile plain, I commenced
ascending the mountain in a zig-zag manner, and con-tinued
my way to Laguna over a rough, narrow road,
which, in many places, was almost impassible. The only
settlements between this place and Laguna, are the ham-lets
of Santa Ursula, Vittoria, and Matanzas, the two lat-ter
names, (victory and slaughter,) notorious in occurring
together in most Spanish provinces, create an unpleasant
contrast with the peace and quietude which these colonies
usually inspire. In pursuing my route, I observed on the
left, along the sea-shore, numerous date-trees, (Phcenix
dactylifera. Lin.) and farther up, groups of the orange
and the banana. The more precipitous parts of the de-scent
were covered with vines and peach-trees, richly
laden with fruit, while the more level portions were planted
with grain and other vegetables. The fields were fre-quently
separated by hedges of the prickly pear, (Cactus
opuntia. Lin.) and the American aloes, (Agave ameru
cana. Lin.) The latter, when vigorous, sometimes rises
to the height of sixty feet, and branches out on every side,
so as to form a kind of pyramid of greenish yellow flowers,
which stand erect, and come out at every joint. As a
hedge, its hardy lance-like leaves render it totally impene-trable
to man and beast. When pressed, the light blue
leaves yield a thick juice, which, with lye-ashes, is formed
into balls and used as soap. The peasantry of these islands
soak them in water, and beat them with mallets, as flax or
hemp, and afterwards spin the lignum into coarse thread,
suitable for making lines and small cordage of a very
strong and durable quality.
In travelling from Laguna to Santa Cruz, the only
plants that I observed were the Euphorbia canariensis, the
Cacalia kleinia, and the Cactus opuntia. The road was
steep and difficult, in many places, and appeared to be
formed of the debris of an ancient current of lava from the
Peak. My horse moved with a snail-like pace, and slipped
at every rod. At length, after a considerable fatigue, I
reached a small plain near a beautiful stone bridge, thrown
across a deep ravine, and shortly after arrived at the place
CANARY ISLANDS. 35
of my destination. The evening being too far advanced
to prosecute the object of my journey, it was deferred.
The next morning I presented myself to the Governor
Genera], who, after passing a few civilities, gave me per-mission
to examine the whole island, and kindly offered
me assistance whenever required. I passed the remainder
of the day in viewing the town, and in examining the cliffs
in its vicinity.
Santa Cruz is a pleasant town of considerable extent,
containing, according to the last census, 6,400 inhabitants.
It has less appearance of poverty than this place, although
I was constantly assailed by the most importunate beggars.
A friend pointed out to me the exact spot where Nelson
experienced the only failure of his glorious career. No
one who has ever read of this memorable conflict could
gaze upon this spot without being possessed with feelings
of peculiar interest.
After a comfortable night's rest, I set off yesterday morn-ing
about eight o'clock, under a burning sun, from Santa
Cruz for this place. On my road to Laguna, I met a
drove of white camels, (Cwneh's dromedarius. Lin.) em-ployed
in conveying produce to the town. The monoto-nous
tinkling of their bells, their slowly-measured pace
and lethargic countenances, all of which were exactly in
unison with the listless heat, and the sun-scorched hills,
bearing now and then a cluster of succulent plants, which
receive their nourishment from the air rather than the soil,
strongly impressed me that the aspect of these islands
belongs to Africa, and to the most arid part of it.
I pursued my way on horse-back as far as Matanzas, and
performed the remainder of my journey on foot, in order
to examine the geology of the rout more minutely. In
descending the ravines to the sea-side, I observed that the
lowermost stratum consisted of huge masses of yellowish-brown
columnar basaltes, som.ewhat irregular in their
forms. Directly above them were strata of brecciae,
resembling volcanic tufa. They contained fragments of
the same basaltes that they covered, and often recent ter-restrial
shells ; and it is asserted, that the remains of ma-rine
productions are observed in them. Next in succes-sion
above, was a stratum of ferruginous earth, overlaid
36 CANARY ISLANDS.
with a dark argillaceous soil, containing crystals of pyrox-ene,
and fragments of compact lava.
I arrived here late last evening, lame and worn out with
fatigue ; and to-day have taken up my residence during
my stay in this place with Mr. Alfred Diston, an English
merchant, a gentleman no less distinguished for general
information than for the friendly services which he has
rendered scientific men who have visited these regions.
Port Orotava, Wednesday, }
August 22, 1833. \
LETTER VIII.
First Ascent of the Peak.
After arranging the necessary preliminaries, I set off
for the Peak on the 29th instant, before the break of day,
accompanied by ten persons, principally professional and
mercantile men of this island, each of us attended by a
guide, or rather such as professed to be our guides. Al-though
born within two leagues of the mountain, most of
them had never been induced by the excitement of curi-osity
to ascend from their native valley to the " regions
of barren grandeur above them."
We pursued our course along the sea-shore for a league
or more, till we reached Realejo de Abaxo, shortly after
w^hich, we commenced ascending the lofty mountain of
Tygayga passing by the straggling hamlet of Ycod del
Alto ; and after attaining the height of about 4000 feet,
we halted a few moments in order to view the surrounding
scenery. We were situated on the brink of a precipice
where we could look down more than 2000 feet nearly
perpendicularly, which, at first sight, would make a person
of ordinary nerves, shudder. The cold had sensibly
increased, the mercury having sunk to 57^, and the vegeta-tion
and general aspect of things had totallv changed, bear-ing
quite another character from those in the valley below.
We continued to ascend over regions distinguished by
their peculiar vegetation until eight o'clock, when we
reached Las Canadas, or Los Llanos de Retama, which
are remarkable for bearing a profusion of broom, (Spartium
nuhigEnwiu Lin.) called by the natives, la retama. It is
a woody shrub, ramifying close to the earth, and sends
forth numerous tufted branches to the height of nine or ten
feet. It is an ever-green, varying from light-blue to pale-
4
3S C A N A R Y I S L A N D S .
green, forming a beautiful contrast with its white papiliona-ceous
flowers which emit an agreeable odor, and are very
productive in honey. During the season of their bloom,
the natives transport their hives of bees to the distance of
several leagues, that they may extract the nectary, and
likewise to prevent them from puncturing the grape which
is in an immature state at this period. The retama grows
in the midst of a vast field of ashes and pumice-stones, which
encircles the Peak, and which is generally ranked by
botanists as its highest zone of vegetation, although there
are a few species of gramineous and cryptogamous plants
growing amongst it, and even some of the latter are found
on the most elevated parts of the mountain.
In passing over a small plain destitute of vegetation,
which appeared to have been inundated during the rainy
seasons, I observed a flock of wild goats, (Capra Mrcus.
LiN.) the species of which, has run wild on the Peak for
centuries, and has subsisted on the boughs of the retama.
From this place we travelled more than a league over a
sterile tract, composed almost entirely of small fragments
of pumice-stones and ashes, which were constantly pelting
our faces by the cold south-west wind that was blowing
directly against us. The latter portion of these llanos
became more steep, and bore scarcely any marks of vegeta-tion,
and huge masses of feldspathic lava, lay scattered
up and down. On leaving Las Cahadas, the way became
very rugged and difficult of ascent, so much so, that our
mules were scarcely able to sustain their burdens. How-ever,
after a great deal of patience and fatigue, we arrived
at La Estancia de los Yngleses, at two o'clock in the after-noon,
where we pitched our tent for the night. Here the
mountain became less steep, and contained some rocks of
lava, of an incredible size, which evidently were dis-charged
from the crater at some remote period. They
served to break off" the winds which blew with biting keen-ness
from the south-west, rendering this the most com-fortable
resting-place that the mountain affords. After
refreshing myself with food and repose, I employed myself
the remainder of the evening in making observations.
My principal object in ascending this mountain, was to
make an admeasurement of its height, and also of several
CANARY ISLANDS. d^
Other points between its summit and the ocean, in order
to ascertain the elevation at which certain species of
vegetation can exist in these latitudes. My barometer
having become impaired during the ascent, I was obliged
to resort to the thermometrical barometer which consists
of nothing more than immersing a common thermometer
into boiling-hot water, which will cause the mercury to
rise in proportion to the specific gravity of the atmosphere.
At the level of the ocean, the boiling point of Fahrenheit's
scale is 212° ; but as we ascend into the air, it gradually
decreases, which depends, in a measure, on the humidity
and temperature of the air. In making experiments of
this kind, many precautions are necessary. It is im-portant
to have the instrument properly constructed, and
to make use of pure water. Care should also be observed
with regard to communicating the instrument to the water,
and to the time after it commences boiling.*
At a quarter past seven in the evening, the thermometer
stood at 53°, and on being immersed into boiling-hot
water, the mercury indicated a depression of 17-5^ below
the boiling point at the level of the ocean, which gives an
elevation of about 9800 feet above the sea. After enjoy-ing
a delicious view of the nocturnal scenery and the
rising moon, I retired to the tent in order to pass the night
in tranquillity and silence ; but our merry guides were
seated round an enormous fire revelling over the fragments
of a wild goat, and kept up their noisy mirth during the
night with so much enthusiasm, that neither threats nor
persuasion would induce them to be quiet. I remained in
the camp until midnight, trying to catch a moment's
repose, but finding my efforts in vain, I was forced to dis-card
all thoughts of sleep, and rose to prepare for the
ascent. From the diminution of the weight of the atmos-phere,
combined with other circumstances, several of us
were affected with nausea, vertigo, hemorrhage, and a uni-versal
uneasiness. Our pulse " did not beat, but flutter ;
"'
and so feeble as to be hardly perceived. Every breath of
*For an account of an improved instrument of this kind constructed by Re
F. J H. VVollaston, see the Pliilosophical Transactiops for 1817, p. 183,
40 CANARY ISLANDS.
air that we inhaled, seemed to pierce the lungs like a
stinging instrument.
After haranguing with our guides for two tedious hours,
we recommenced our march over a way more steep than
ever, so much so that we were obliged to abandon our
mules, and perform the remainder of the distance on foot.
At half past two, we arrived at Alta Vista, where the ther-mometer
indicated a temperature of 47°, and the wind
blew directly from the north. From this place, we com-menced
the most difficult and the most arduous part of our
ascent, climbing over huge, precipitous crags of lava,
which were sharp and rasping to the fingers, and to the
soles of our shoes. At half past three, we reached La
Cueva del Yelo, a subterranean glacier, from which we
procured some excellent water. Here the wind blew
again from the south-west, and the mercury had risen to
48°. After two hours' climbing over a vast and almost
perpendicular tract of lava, attended with much toil and
danger, we reached La Rambleta, where there was for-merly
a small platform surrounding the Piton, or sugar-loaf;
but now, the debris thrown from the crater, have
almost obliterated its outline. On our way thither, those
of our company who had not the precaution to bring
with them gloves and a sufficient quantity of clothing,
were complaining bitterly of the cold, and of bloody fin-gers.
The wind still continued to blow from the south-west,
and the mercury had sunk to 41 o. At the rising of
the sun, we commenced climbing the sugar-loaf which is
covered with loose ashes and pumice, and so steep that it
would have been almost impracticable to ascend it, had
there not been an old current of lava to aid our footsteps.
At half past seven, we attained the summit of this cele-brated
mountain, where the wind blew a tremendous hur-ricane
from the south-west, and disenabled us to stand
without supporting ourselves by a lance, or clinging to the
walls of the crater. Most of the lower regions were inter-cepted
by a stratum of white clouds exactly resembling the
ocean, foaming with its utmost agitation. The sulphure-ous
stench and suffocating vapors impelled most of my
companions to descend immediately after reaching the brink
CANARY ISLANDS. 41
of the crater. We immediately prepared for observation,
and with some difficuUy, struck up a fire on the leeward
side near the top of the highest pinnacle.
Observations.—Temperature of the atmosphere on the
top of the Peak, 7'2^ ; at six feet above, 39° ; temperature
of boiling hot-water, 190o. On thrusting a lance into the
crater to the depth of a foot, and introducing the ther-mometer,
the mercury instantaneously rose to 220°, the
extent of its graduation. The plate of the instrument
accumulated, from the vapor which issued from the aper-ture,
some drops of liquid that had a powerful corroding
effect. It is highly probable that these vapors contain
muriatic or sulphuric acid ; or the corrosion of the plate of
the instrument was caused by sulphuretted hydrogen com-ing
in contact with it. Sound was greatly diminished
when made with the same efforts as below ; the compass was
not at all agitated. From the disagreeable and nauseous
effect of the sulphureous exhalations of the volcano, and
the difficulty of breathing, we were under the necessity of
suspending further observation, and descended, as soon as
practicable, to La Cueva del Yelo, where we stopped
and refreshed ourselves, took hs dimensions, and the
temperature of the water which it contained. It is entered
by an irregular aperture of about eight feet in diameter,
and is fifteen feet deep, twenty-five wide, and as far as
penetrated, two hundred feet in length. Its bottom is a
solid bed of ice covered with pure crystalline water about
a foot deep, having a temperature of 41°. During winter,
this cavern is filled with ice and snow ; and as the rays of
the sun do not penetrate beyond its mouth, the heats of
summer are insufficient to empty the reservoir. There is
a tradition amongst the natives here, that the v.-ater in this
cave was formerly unfathomable, and that it ebbed and
flowed with the sea.
At mid-day, we returned to La Estancia, where we over-took
our other companions. Overpowered with fatigue,
and affected with an unaccountable perturbation of mind,
I was unable to proceed any further without relief. The
cause of my illness was soon discovered, and alter being
removed, we continued our descent over Las Canadas, and
4*
42 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S .
called El Portillo, and partook of an excellent dinner in a
grove of chesnuts situated in the higher regions of the
Valley of Orotava, and at six o'clock last evening, we
reached this place, where the freshness of the air, with the
melody of a hundred songsters that were perched among
the creeping plants, whose flowers diffused an aromatic
odor, formed the most delightful contrast with the desolate
and inhospitable regions from which we had returned.
Port Orotava, Saturday, )
Au-ust 3],1833. I
LETTER IX.
Second Ascent of the Peak.
After having a day's rest, I again set off for the Peak,
in order to accomplish my intended observations. The
weather was clear and serene, and I commenced my jour-ney
under every auspicious omen. I proceeded to Realejo
de Abaxo, and shortly after, ascended the mountain of
Tygayga, where the botany was exceedingly interesting.
Towards evening, I crossed Las Cafiadas, and whh little
difficulty, reached La Estancia de los Yngleses at six
o'clock, where I met M. DesDreau, of Paris, and his
attendants, who was ascending the Peak in order to make
some astronomical observations. Here we passed the night
in the open air near a large fire which our guides con-structed
with branches of the retama. Though in a torrid
country, and under the brilliant sky of Africa, we suffered
extremely from the cold during the night. At the break
of day, we mounted our mules and proceeded with some
difficulty as far as Alta Vista, where I learned that M.
Despreau had met with a fall and disenabled himself so
much, that he was unable to ascend, and had returned to
La Estancia. Being excessively fatigued, and affected
with nausea, I found it prudent to return also, and defer
my journey. At La Estancia, I lay down upon the dry
earth, throwing my cloak over me, and enjoyed two or
three hours' undisturbed repose, which greatly relieved me
from my illness and fatigue.
Observations.—The upper regions of the sky were
perfectly clear ; no wind ; the moon and stars very bril-liant.
Mercury and Venus, in particular, appeared
44 C A X A R Y ISLANDS.
brighter tlian I ever saw them before. Below my feet,
over Las Canadas, there was a sea of white clouds appar-ently
rolling against the mountain. The tops of the
lesser hills were jutting out of the clouds resembling small
islands. Temperature of the atmosphere at three o'clock
in the morning, 48°.
At nine o'clock, I took my leave of M. Despreau and
descended to the mountain of Tygayga where I was envel-oped
in a thick stratum of clouds so dense, that I could
scarcely distinguish one object from another. The retama
and other shrubs were shedding water so profusely, that it
run down the mountain in continued rills. This may lead
us to inquire whether the marvellous " fountain tree " of
Hierro did not derive its moisture from a similar cause ?
I cannot learn, only by tradition, that such a tree ever
existed there ; although there is no doubt, that in the early
part of the last century, a tree was blown down and
destroyed there, from the branches of which, a small degree
of moisture used to trickle, but so far from being an inhe-rent
property of the tree, that the same effect would have
been produced by any other like tree, if placed at the
mouth of a ravine where a succession of clouds and mists
are constantly rushing. The tree in question undoubtedly,
was placed in a similar situation, and by the attraction of
cohesion, accumulated drops of water which it shed, and
gave rise to the story of the *' vegetable spring," so zeal-ously
perused and repeated by the marvellous.
In passing through the clouds, I observed a phenome-non
which has often been remarked on high mountains.
" Small currents of air chased trains of clouds with unequal
velocity, and in opposite directions, and bore the appear-ance
of streamlets of water in rapid motion, in all directions,
amidst a great mass of stagnant waters. The causes of
this partial motion of the clouds, are probably very various ;
we may suppose it to rise from some impulsion at a great
distance; fi-om the slight inequalities of the soil, which
reflect in a greater or less degree, the radiant heat ; from
a difference of temperature kept up by some chemical
action, or perhaps from a strong electric charge of the vesi-cular
vapors." *
* Humboldt.
C A N A R Y I S L A N D S . 45
Although the body of the mountain is often wrapped in
clouds, and the Peak seen above them quite clear, some-times
the reverse of this happens ; the whole body of the
mountain is distinctly seen, while its summit is covered
with a thick, white cloud, as with a cap. This is often
observed in the tinest weather ; and the Spaniards on this
occasion say, El Pico tiene su somhreHo pursto—"The
peak has put his little hat on," and look out for rain.
Towards evening, I descended below the clouds, and
continued my way down the mountain quite to the sea-shore
near San Juan de la Rambla, and at the break of
the mountain, entered a ravine of a frightful aspect, which
served as an issue to one of the sepulchral caverns of
the Guanches. I ascended a perpendicular rock nearly
one hundred feet, where a yawning cave presented itself
containing an immense quantity of the bones of the abo-rigines
of this island ; but they were too much decomposed
to be examined to advantage. They appeared, however,
to be generally of a larger size than the bones of the
Europeans, which coincides with the history of the Guanche
race. From thence I returned to this place compara-tively
satisfied with my excursion, although I had not
accomplished its intended object.
Port Orotava, Friday, )
September 6, 1833, \
LETTER X,
Third Ascent of tl)e Peak.
Os the morning of the 9th, at eight o'clock, I set off
for the third time, to ascend the Peak, with a resolution
not to return, if possible, until I had perfected my purposed
objects. I pursued my route as usual, up the mountain of
Tygayga, and at ten o'clock, entered a dense body of
clouds, " dark as night," through which, I wandered for
two hours without knowing whether the next moment I
should be thrown headlong down the neighboring preci-pice,
or should find some more favorable issue, till all of a
sudden, the sun burst upon me, and I found myself just
entering Las Canadas. Soon after I came to the small
llano at the foot of the mountain, where I stopped and
refreshed myself, and made some observations on tempera-ture,
and a rude trigonometrical measurement of the Peak,
according to which, its elevation above this plain is 54(37
feet.
From this small plain, I passed through a narrow defile
hollowed very anciently by the torrents, and about five
o'clock, I passed into the shadow of the Peak. The atmos-phere
was remarkably serene during the afternoon, and the
sun shone with its utmost brilliancy, the light of which,
created a painful sensation in my eyes. Shortly after
entering the shadow of the mountain, I observed a phe-nomenon
which, in former times, would have struck the
beholder with terror, and would have been regarded as
the direct agency of supernatural power ; but fortunately for
myself, science had reduced it to the level of other natural
phenomena, and I watched it with intense interest and
admiration. In casting my eye towards the eastern hori-zon,
I observed, suspended in the air, nearly on a level
48 CANARY ISLANDS.
with myself, a perfect image of the Peak itself, diminished
in size as if reflected in a convex mirror, having all the
distinctness and apparent solidity of reality ; not only were
the light and dark tracts of lava plainly defined, but even
the very vapors which issue from the crater were rising
from its summit*
.^
It remained visible about fifteen minutes, and gradually
disappeared as the sun went down. At the time of the
illusion, there was scarcely a breath of wind, and the
lower regions of the atmosphere over the Valley of Orotava,
were charged with a horizontal sheet of dense vapors.
The next day on my return, I learned that the inhabitants
below had been visited by an extraordinary fall of rain.
The foregoing phenomenon derived its origin from noth*
ing more than the image of the Peak projected on the
humid atmosphere over the ocean, which acted as a con-vex
mirror, and by well-known laws of refraction and
reflection, produced the eifect above described. The ele-vated
position of the image may be accounted for by the
passing of the light from a rarer medium to a denser one
;
which, to an observer in the rare medium, appears to ele-vate
objects that are at the bottom of the dense one, as is
familiarly explained with a piece of money and a bason of
water.
From a similar cause, rose the story of the " enchanted
island of San Borondon," which formerly excited so much
wonder and terror. According to the reveries of pilots
and certain legends, it was situated in the west, in some
unknown part of the ocean, buried, as was supposed,
when invisible, in eternal fogs. " This land, represented
to have been governed by an archbishop and six bishops,
CANAPwY ISLANDS. 49
and which Father Feijoo believed to be the image of the
isle of Hierro, reflected on a fog bank, was ceded in the
16th century, by the King of Portugal, to Luis Perdigon,
at the time the latter was preparing to make a conquest of
it." * It is supposed to have been caused by a peculiar
humid wind from the W.S.W., which produces an aston-ishing
effect of mirage in these latitudes.
At half past six, I reached La Estancia, where I passed
the night in the open air and suffered intolerably from the
cold. But a more glorious evening there never was
beheld. The sky was not, as seen from the lower regions,
" an ebon concave gemmed with brilliants," but one calm
expanse of the darkest blue,
" So cloudless, pure, and beautiful,
That God alone was to be seen in heaven."
The stars shone with peculiar brilliancy, and were
increased in numbers and in size. The galaxy appeared
a flame of pure white, and in some parts, was composed
of clusters of minute stars ; in others, nebulae of the richest
pearl, gradually blending with the deep-blue sky ; while in
another part, appeared a delightful vista which seemed to
lead through the com.mon firmament to regions more ethe-rial
and more pure. At first, I was astonished at these
scenes, but when I came to reflect that I had passed
through ten thousand feet of dense atmosphere, charged
with vapors, which have a tendency to blunt and confuse
every ray before it reaches the earth, I was at once con-vinced
of the cause.
Ere the dawn of day, I was again on the march, and at
twilight, arrived at Alta Vista. Here my attention was
arrested with some curious flashes of light, shooting up
from, the east, resembling small rockets. But soon, how-ever,
I found them to be nothing but the images of the
stars, magnified and refracted by the vapors which were at
that time spread along the horizon. Sometimes these licfhts
remained stationary, while at others, they rose perpendicu-larly,
and then descended laterally to their former position.
* Humboldt.
50 CANARY ISLANDS.
I next proceeded to La Cueva del Yelo, where I
beheld the beautiful and sublime spectacle of the rising
sun. After refreshing myself and making some observa-tions
on temperature, I continued to ascend by degrees,
having repeated turns of resting, and at ten o'clock, once
more gained the " grand summit," where the sublimity of
the scene was at first almost overwhelming. Far removed
from every human habitation, and elevated at an immense
height from the face of the earth, drawn as it were to a
single point without any intermediate objects, save the
clouds, for the senses or the imagination to rest upon, and
recover from their astonishment in their way down to the
world, it was not until some time that I was capable of
discriminating and judging of the things that were about
me. Then to reflect that the very pinnacle upon which I
was placed, was raised over a bottomless gulf, old as the
world itself, and often had discharged rivers of liquid fire,
and flaming rocks, attended with the most dreadful conse-quences,
I was struck with awe and with horror. Soon,
however, I collected myself and commenced the object of
my ascent, and accomplished its full intention.
At twelve o'clock, I bade adieu to this awful spot,
inspired with feelings both of pleasure and of pain. I
descended to La Estancia, making several observations on
the way, and at two o'clock in the afternoon pursued my
journey homeward.
Observations.—During the two hours which I passed
on the Peak, the face of the sky was intensely serene, and
of a hue approaching to black.* The rays of the sun fell
upon me with such potency, that they could be hardly
endured. The wind was but just perceptible from the
north-east, and a stratum of white, fleecy clouds was spread
out, concealing all the lower regions, presenting an appear-ance
exactly resembling an extensive plain covered with
snow. From the rariiied state of the atmosphere, there
was great difficulty in breathing. Although a deep silence
prevailed around me, the voices of my guides ceased
*Hn nboMt reinarks, that thn cyanometer iiulicuted an intensity of the sky, of
4F, at tlie time he was on the Peak.
CANARY ISLAND S. 51
to be heard at the distance of a few hundred feet,
and efforts that would produce sounds of ordinary inten-sity
in the regions of common life, made but feeble im-pressions.
Notwithstanding these disquietudes, I was
not out of the range of other beings than myself.
About mid-day, several swallows, (Hinindo apus. Lin.)
were seen darting across the crater with great celerity,
and a number of wild bees were collecting spoils from
the soft mud that covers the summit.
The following table shows the temperature of the atmos-phere,
and of boiling-hot water at different points of eleva-tion
indicated by Fahrenheit's scale.
Temp, of the Air. Of Hot Water.
At the small llano at the base of the Peak, Sept. 9, . 76^ . . 200'
La Estancia de los Yngleses, Sept. 10, . . 74 . . 194-5
AltaVista, 70 . . 19-2-75
La Cueva del Yelo, . . ... 43 .. 199
LaRambleta, 77 . . 190-9
Summit of the Peak, 72 . . 190
At six feet above the summit, .... 55
Aqueous vapors in the small hole of the crater, . 160
The Peak of Teneriffe, called by the natives. El Pico
de Teyde,^ consists of a pyramidal mass of more than
twenty miles in circumference at the base, and is elevated
nearly 12,'200 feet above the level of the ocean. Nearly
one half of its surface is thinly scattered with the retama,
the remaining portion being sterile and very sparingly pro-ducing
a small violet, (Viola cheiranthifolia. Lin.) which
is of a flaming hue. Also a few species of grasses are found
a considerable distance up the sides, and some species of
cryptogamous plants vegetate quite on the verge, and even
in the crater. A great portion of the surface of the moun-tain
consists of rugged tracts of lava, having a base of
pitch-stone, or obsidian of a blackish-brown, or deep-green
color, and in most instances, contains crystals of feldspar.
Several varieties of obsidian are found here, as well as
pumice, the latter being generally of a whitish color. On
the borders of Las Caiiadas are also to be found immense
* Corrupted from the Guanche word Echeydc, hellj from the belief of the abo-rigines,
that the infernal regions existed on the highest summit of this mountain, in
consequence of their having seen it discharge fire and sulphur at the time of
eruptions.
5*2 CANARY ISLANDS.
blocks of feldspathic lava with a base of pyroxene, and con-tains
crystals of feldspar ; and in some instances are found
fragments of granitic lava.
The present crater of this volcano, called by the Span-iards,
la c aldera, is of an elliptical form, surrounded by a
wall of lithoidal lava, shelving down on each side, and
forms a hollow like a vast amphitheatre. It inclines to the
S.S.E. at an angle of about 15°, having a tranverse diameter
of 420 feet, a conjugate diameter of 350, and a depth of
103 feet. There is continually rising from the small
crevices, an aqueous vapor which issues with such force,
as to create a peculiar buzzing noise. It condenses against
the neighboring walls, and distils in drops of sulphuric, or
muriatic acid, while the residue adheres to the rocks, and
forms an incrustation of fine crystals of sulphur. It also
acts on the scattered fragments of lava about the crater,
and forms certain portions of it into a soft, whitish paste, in
which, are found crystals of sulphate of alumine.
This volcano may be compared to a grand laboratory
for manufacturing sulphuric acid. There probably exists
an extensive bed of ignited sulphur, deep in the earth, and
by large quantities of nitre, or some other substance, it is
supplied with oxygen to maintain its combustion. And as
the mountain is constantly absorbing moisture from the rain,
clouds and snows, which prevent the escape of the volatile
matter, by imbibing the sulphureous vapors, it gradually
becomes more and more acid, till it exudes in the man-ner
above described.
An expedition to the summit of this mountain is particu-larly
interesting, on account of the multiplicity of phe-nomena,
which are objects of scientific investigation, and
still it has great attractions from its picturesque beauties
;
but I never could recommend a person to subject himself to
all the toils and fatigues in accomplishing it, on account of
the latter, for he will surely return, like almost every one,
dissatisfied.
Port Orotava, Friday, )
September 13, 1833. \
LETTER XI.
Excursion to Chasna.
On the 16th instant, I set off from Port Orotava, in
order to make a grand excursion round the Peak. I pur-sued
my course during the entire day along the sea-shore,
travelling through a country widely diversified in its
aspect, as well as its productions. That portion of the
rout between Realejo de Abaxo and San Juan dela Rambla,
is one of the most interesting parts of the island, both as
regards its fertility and its picturesqueness. Here the lofty
mountain of Tygayga abruptly breaks above your head
and may be seen
" Mirror'd in the ocean vast,
A tliousand fathoms down."
Here you enter a lovely glen traversed by babbling
streamlets, which are overhung with the '' golden orange,"
the " blushing peach," and the " generous vine." Here,
too, you may gaze at myriads of golden insects and glit-terino-
lizards basking in the sun : and there, countless
warblers
" Gracefully riding through the sky."
I continued my way to Ycod de los Vinos, passing
through San Juan de la Rambla; where near the latter
place, I observed an irregular basaltic rock, the columns
of which were six-sided, and were connected with each
other at the ends by oblique angles. The country between
these two villas affords scarcely any vegetation, except
the Cactus opuntia, and a few stinted fig-trees, and is
truly called by the natives la mal pais, (the bad coun-
54 CANARY ISLANDS.
trv), which signifies, in all Spanish provinces, a ground
destitute of vegetable mould, and covered with fragments
of lavas.
About mid-day, I left Ycod, where I had a most mag-nificent
view of the Peak, and travelled about a league
through a succession of fertile vineyards to Garachico, the
port of which was destroyed in 1706, by an enormous
lateral eruption of the Peak. Before that event, this place
had the best harbor in the province, and was extensively
engaged in foreign commerce ; consequently, from that
circumstance, it was deprived of its opulence, and now is
inhabited principally by vine-dressers and fishermen, hav-ing
only 1861 inhabitants.
At six o'clock in the evening, I arrived at Los Silos,
where I passed the night on the estate of Mr. John Colo-gan,
of Orotava. Here I enjoyed one of the most inviting
scenes in existence, w^here
" The clusters clear,
Half through the foliage seen, or ardent flame,
Or shine transparent ; while perfection breathes
White o'er the turgent film the living dew,
As thus they brighten with exalted juice,
Touch'd into flavor by the mingling ray ;
The rural youth and virgins o'er the field.
Each fond for each to cull the autumnal prime,
Exulting rove, and speak the vintage nigh."
The following morning I resumed my march and pur-sued
my rout over a small fertile plain, and at nine
o'clock, reached Buena Vista, a compact village, situated
near the western extremity of the island, and contained,
according to the last census, 1228 inhabitants. I soon
commenced ascending a lofty range of mountains which
encircle the Peak, and after climbing over a remarkably
steep and rocky path for more than two hours, I entered a
dense forest of cedars, resembling the Scottish fir, where
the rain began to pour down in torrents. I quickened
my pace, and about mid-day, came to an opening where
I took shelter in a wretched hovel constructed of loose
stones and straw, and contained neither windows, floor, or
chimney, nor furniture, except a few stones and earthen-pots.
Here I found a poor woman clothed in rags, and
four small children in an entire state of nudity. Shortly
CANARY ISLANDS. 55
after my arrival, a fire of pine torches was constructed in
one corner of the hut, from which we were soon enveloped
in fumes. Occasionally the light of the torches would cast
a glimmer on the puny imps, who were encircled in smoke
and darkness, and gave them the appearance of so many
little demons.
The storm having become less violent, I again continued
my journey. But I had not progressed far, before the rain
began to fall more furious than ever, and the wind blew
with great violence. I soon reached the summit of the
mountain, when, all of a sudden, the rain ceased, and the
sun broke through the clouds, and presented beneath me,
a gulf truly frightful, a sight of which, would cause the
strongest nerves to shudder. I could look down 3000 feet
almost perpendicularly towards La Punta de Teno over
numerous strata of sand and rocks of lava of a singular
appearance, an inspection of which, could not be made,
from the threatening aspect of the clouds. No sooner had
I begun to descend, than the sun concealed itself, and the
rain recommenced falling with increased vehemence, and
the wind, sweeping over the mountain, blew a tremendous
hurricane, awfully grand and appalling. With extreme
difficulty, I advanced struggling against the fury of the
wind, which incessantly dashed large piercing drops of
rain against my face and limbs. The path became so
precipitous, that my mule was scarcely able to descend.
The poor beast would have to poise itself for some time on
its fore legs with its heels upwards, in order to gain its
equilibrium, that it might securely light upon some place
below. In the mean time, the rain had caused a frightful
torrent to rush down the ravine with astonishing tumult
over the huge masses of rock that obstructed its course.
However, at two o'clock the rain had ceased, and I
reached El Valle de Santiago, from which I immediately
ascended the mountain, on its eastern side, where a
most charming prospect was laid before me. The wind
blew with great violence, but the storm had ceased,
and the sun shone with its usual brightness. Far and
deep down, was seen the beautiful valley below, and high
aloft hung huge columns of basalt, seemingly ready to fall
upon my head. Here I begun to grow forgetful of my
56 CANARY ISLANDS.
dancrer and of my fatigue, for I had discovered a deep
stratum of yellowish earth, which contained millions of
crystals of pyroxene, distinct in their forms, of a large
size, and easily procured. From the danger of being
swept off the precipice by the fury of the wind, I was soon
obliged to descend to the south side of the mountain, where
I found the weather fair and calm, and the lofty Teyde,
just peeping over the intermediate mountain, was crowned
with a brilliant rainbow, a spectacle, perhaps, as rare as it
was sublime.
The remaining part of the day, I travelled over a barren
country, having scarcely any vegetation to diversify its
monotonous cliffs, except the prickly pear and a few fig-trees.
I observed large heaps of the fruit of the former
preparing for the winter store of the natives ; this and gojio*
being their chief sustenance during the year.
About dusk, I arrived at Guia, a straggling village, con-taining
15T1 inhabitants, chiefly fishermen, where, with
some difficulty, my guides procured me lodgings for the
night. Early the next morning, I set off again and trav-elled
more than three leagues over an excessively barren
tract intersected by numerous ravines, some of them being
of such terrific depth, that the mind of the descending
traveller is impressed with involuntary agitation. On
reaching their bottom, the voices of my guides were
increased to an astonishing loudness, and echoed against
their walls with repeated reverberations.
About noon, I arrived at Adexe, a pleasant village
situated in a fertile valley, which contains 1048 inhabitants.
It stands on a stratum of brecciae, w^hich is very easily cut
into blocks, that are used for building. Here I observed
several dark-complexioned people, having straight black
hair, resembling the Moors of the continent. Towards
evening, I reached a small plain situated on a hill, called
*Thi3 substance is usually made of maize, or barley, and at times, as a dainty,
of wheat. Tlie grain is first parched over the fire, and then ground into coarse
flour between two small portable mill-stones, moved by the hand ; and this powder
is the gofio, which they eat without any other kind of food. Sometimes, how-ever,
tliey put a quantity of it with water, or, as a luxury, with coats' or asses' milk,
into a zurrun, or small leather sack, and after working it well upon their knees,
they knead it into small pellets, which they throw into their mouths by handfulls,
and devour them with greediness.
CANARY ISLANDS. 57
Las Colonias, which commands El Valle de las Calderas,
(the valley of craters), where there were to be seen, at the
same time, more than twenty conical hills with extinct
craters. About sunset, I came into the borders of San
Miguel, and passed the night with a family of Guanche
descent, who still retain similar habits and modes of life,
as those of their ancestors. I was quite amused with
many of their movements, particularly their mode of pre-paring
and eating the gofio.
Early this morning, I bade adieu to my Guanche friends,
and pursued my journey over a somewhat fertile country,
producing an abundance of fig-trees, from which I made
a delicious breakfast of their ripe, purple fruit. About ten
o'clock, I reached this place, shortly after which, I procured
a comfortable room, and after refreshing myself, made an
excursion about a league and a half at the northward, to
some mineral springs. The first two that I came to, were
situated about eight feet apart, and both issued from a bed
of talcky slate. One of them, called by the natives, La
Agua Agria, (sour water), was about a foot in diameter, and
six inches deep, discharging a small quantity of acidulous
water highly charged with carbonic acid gas, with a tem-perature
of 62°. The other spring was about the same size,
with a temperature of GS*^, and is called La Agua Dulce,
(sweet water), having no other sensible properties, but
those of common water. From these two springs, I trav-elled
over a steep mountain at the distance of about half
of a league to the northward, where I found another spring,
situated on the eastern side of El Valle de Ucanca. It
discharged a considerable quantity of saline water, having
a very disagreeable acrid taste, with a temperature of 54°.
It issued from a stratum of whitish sand, overlaid with
large blocks of feldspathic lava, and is called by the natives,
La Agua Agria de Ucanca.
Many of the natives of these islands have great faith in
the medicinal virtues of this spring, and assemble here at
certain seasons of the year, and pass several days together.
The drinking of the water is sometimes attended with the
most serious consequences, producing immediate death.
On my return to this place, I passed through a forest of
pines, (Pinus canariensis. Lin.) many of which were
53 CANARY ISLANDS.
twenty or thirty feet in circumference. The wood of
this tree contains an abundance of resin, and serves for
excellent timber and fuel.
The hamlet of Chasna is situated in a fertile valley in
the heart of the mountains, and is elevated about 4500 feet
above the level of the ocean. It has a greater resemblance
to a New-England village than any other place on the
island that I have visited. It is encompassed by extensive
orchards of peach, pear, and almond trees, and some well
cultivated fields and gardens. The neighboring hills and
mountains are crowned by forests of majestic pines, or are
interspersed with large flocks of sheep, each attended by a
shepherd during the entire day and night. A population
of 574 souls inhabit this Alpine recess, all animated with
the most friendly spirit, and live in simple beauty.
From the elevated situation of this place, the mean
annual temperature is much less than that of the lower
regions, and often in winter, the snow falls to the depth of
more than a foot, and remains for several weeks together.
The inhabitants are a hardy people, generally of a dark
complexion, and are so primitive in their diet, that few of
them seldom, if ever, taste animal food, living entirely on
fruit and gofio. This appears to be a wholesome regimen,
for they are healthy, strong, and athletic, and are sus-ceptible
of great fatigue. When they go abroad, they
usually carry with them a long staff, or pole, pointed with
iron, with which they bound from rock to rock, with an
agility that would baffle all European pursuit. The parish
register of this place exhibits two very extraordinary instan-ces
of longevity : one who died in 1819, at the age of 110
years, and the other in 1825, of 121 years.
Villa Flor de la Chasna, Thursday, )
September 19, 1833. \
LETTER XII.
Return to Orotava.
After completing my inquiries at Chasna, I set off
early in the morning of the •20th instant for this place. I
pursued my rout about half of a mile to the south-eastward
from the village to a spring called by the natives, La Agua
Blanca, (white water). It consisted of a small pool of a
whitish appearance, probably caused by stagnation, and
contained millions of the larvae of mosquetoes. In tasting
the water, I found nothing uncommon in its properties.
From thence, I proceeded to El Valle de Ucanca, when
about nine o'clock, the sky became overcast, and indicated
an approacliing storm. I immediately commenced ascend-ing
the girdle of mountains that surrounds the Peak, which
were so steep, that I was under the necessity of dismounting,
and with some difficulty, reached its summit, where the
wind blew most violently, dashing me with thick mists and
clouds. I descended the northern side of the mountain at
the depth of about 2000 feet to an extensive plain, destitute
of vegetation, and apparently the bed of a lake during the
rainy seasons. Near this plain, it is said that there is
another spring which either possesses the quality of incrus-tation,
or of petrifaction, and that by placing objects within
its influence, they soon become incrusted with a calcareous,
or a siiicious covering. In some of the ravines near the
southern extremity of this plain, there are immense quan-tities
of argillaceous tufa, called by the natives, el azulejo,
which has a beautiful, soft, cerulean hue.
About ten o'clock I overtook my mule and proceeded to
Las Cafiadas, over a succession of tracts of scragged rocks
and small llanos, passing by a number of conical masses of
lava of an immense height, which threateningly leaned over
60 CANARY ISLANDS.
my head. In the mean time the rain had commenced fall-ing
and continued to fall until two o'clock, when it ceased
for a time, aifording delightful weather. The cold sharp
air had created a pretty active appetite which I eagerly
satiated near a limpid spring. Shortly after I resumed my
march and proceeded to a plain more than a mile in length,
and before I had travelled half of its length the rain recom-menced
falling with increased fury. As I was plodding
along I observed a high precipitous rock with a perpen-dicular
face, some parts of which were decomposed, leav-ing
small apertures where the swallows sometimes brood
their young. One of these holes exactly represented a
human profile, having a fine Grecian nose, a high forehead
and regular chin, each possessing its due proportions.
About four o'clock I passed through El Portillo to El
Llano de Gaspas, which is elevated about 5000 feet above
the level of the ocean, and bears a profusio.i of the Genista
canariensis, a beautiful arborescent heath. Near its bor-ders
I observed a great number of impressions of ferns in
basaltes. (?) I continued my descent and reached this port
about dark.
Yesterday I made a botanical excursion over the moun-tain
of Tygayga from Ycod del Alto to El Llano de Gas-pas,
returning through the Valley of Orotava. There can
be but few regions on the globe that afford more ample
resources to the botanist than this island. It contains in
itself several hundred species of plants, besides a great
number of exotics both from the torrid and the temperate
zones. In ascending from the sea-shores to the top of the
mountains, from July to October, one may examine a
great portion of the plants which it produces, and in almost
every stage of growth.
During some of my more leisure hours I have often
taken pleasure in rambling to the Botanic Garden at Du-rasno,
where I saw a great number of foreign plants which
grow without the aid of human culture, and have as often
experienced emotions of regret when I beheld the neglect-ful
state into which it had fallen. It was first established
by the Marquis de Nava who had an idea that these islands
would afford a suitable place for naturalizing plants of the
East and West Indies, previous to their introduction into
CANARY ISLANDS. 61
Europe. He accordingly put his project into execution,
and continued it with considerable success for several
years, but the expenses annually incurred were so heavy,
that he was obliged to abandon it. Humboldt made pro-posals
for the Prussian Government to purchase it and
continue its object, but as no land belonging to Spain cati
be owned out of its provinces, the proposition could not
be carried into effect. The Marquis, however, very mu-nificently
made the king of Spain a present of it, provided
he would keep it under cultivation. This generous offer
he accepted, but through some neglect or other, it has
been suffered to decline, and is now rented for a trifling
sum, and little or nothing more is done for it except what
nature does, than to plant the open spaces with a few
culinary vegetables.
Between this Garden and the ocean there is a delightful
country mansion called La Paz, which, together with the
surrounding prospect, is the most enchanting and romantic
spot on the island. It is built near the brink of a lofty
precipice about 300 feet in height, which overhangs the
sea. It is encompassed by a beautiful garden tastefully
laid out, and is supplied with tanks. From the top of the
house one can command the whole Valley of Orotava, and
in clear weather the island of Palma. But the most pic-turesque
part of the scene is the precipice. The spectator,
standing on the verge of the descent, sees beneath him the
vast ocean, which he hears hoarsely bellowing in the cav-erns
beneath his feet. In placing himself on the sea-shore,
he can ascend mid-way up the cliff by an avenue, to a deep
cavern which was formerly occupied by one of the Guanche
kings for a palace.
A few days ago I took an excursion to La Villa de la
Orotava, and visited the garden of Mr. Cologan, in which
stands the great dragon-tree (DraccEiia draco. Lin.) men-tioned
by Humboldt. At the time that he visited these
islands it was fifty or sixty feet high, having a circumfer-ence,
near the roots, of forty-five feet. The trunk was
divided into a great number of branches which rose in
the form of a candlestick, and were terminated by tufts of
leaves radiating similar to the burs of chesnuts. But in la
6
62 CANARY ISLANDS.
aluvion* of 1826, the tree severed, one half of which was
swept away, leaving the other half which stands at the
present day. Every year it bears flowers and fruit, and is
regarded, among organized beings, as one of the oldest
inhabitants of our globe, which sensibly recalls to mind
" that eternal youth of nature," the inexhaustible source
of motion and of life. This tree is not found indigenous
to any part of the world except the East Indies, which
proves, in a degree, that the Guanches had at some remote
period, communication with nations originally from Asia.
It was reverenced by them as the ash of Ephesus was by
the Greeks ; and the more ignorant classes of the natives
here at present, have many superstitious notions respect-ing
it.
I have been recently informed of a man in this place
who has a profuse flow of milk from his breast. He is of
a middle age, a fisherman by occupation, and is strong,
healthy and robust. A similar phenomenon is mentioned
by Humboldt in Cumana, and another by Benedictus in
Syria.
Port Orotava, Tuesday, )
September 24, 1833."
i
* In the night of the 7th of November, 1826, these islands were visited by a tre-mendous
tempest of wind and rain, the fury of which was so violent at TenerifFe,
that it bore away almost everything that opposed its passage ; churches, convents,
houses to the number of three handred and eleven ; and drowned two hundred and
forty-three people, and one thousand and nine animals, besides doing great injury
to fields, vineyards, houses, etc. New ravines were formed in the mountains, and
stones and trees were swept from their summits to the ocean.
LETTER XIII.
Excursion to Candelaria.
Early in the morning of the 25th instant, I set off
on an excursion to the south part of the island. After
passing directly through the Valley of Orotava, I entered
a beautiful grove of chesnuts, (Castanea vesca. Lin.)
shortly after which I came to a small hamlet near a famous
fountain called La Agua Mansa, (meek water,) from
v.'hich the Villa of Orotava is supplied with water. Many
of the chesnut-trees among which I passed had a circum-ference
of twenty-five or thirty feet, although they were
planted within the last century
After making some observations on temperature and
mineralogy, I ascended a steep mountain to the height of
about 9000 feet above the level of the ocean. On reach-ing
its top, I observed a phenomenon, the like of which I
have never seen nor heard of before, although it might
often occur in many parts of the globe, if the spectator
were placed under similar circumstances. In ascending the
mountain I passed through a stratum of dripping clouds,
and about noon reached its summit, where the sun shone
with intense brilliancy. On turning my face towards the
north I beheld the sun's rays refracted in the clouds below
my feet, forming a perfect bow which unfolded every hue
" In fair proportion running from the red
To where the violet fades."
Shortly after I commenced my descent on the southern
side of the mountain, and about one o'clock reached El
Volcan de Guimar, formed by a lateral eruption of the
Peak in El Llano de los Infantes, on the 31st of De-cember,
1704. On the 5th of January following, a sec-
64 CANARY ISLANDS.
ond opening took place in El Baranco de Almerchig-a,
a league from Ycore. The lavas were so abundant, that
the whole Valley of Fasnia, or Arenza, was filled up. The
isecond mouth ceased vomitinor ei^ht days after its com-mencement.
A third opening was formed on the 2d of
February of the same year, in La Caiiada de Arafo. The
lavas divided into three currents, and would have destroyed
the village of Guimar, had they not been stopped in El Valle
de Melosar, by a chain of rocks, which formed an insupera-ble
obstacle to their passage. The volcano is now extinct,
and consists of large conical masses of small fragments of
black scoriae and ashes.
A short distance to the westward of this volcano there
is a frightful-looking mountain, rising more than 1000 feet
perpendicularly, on the sides of which grows an abundance
of orchilla, or archil, (Lichen rocella. Lin.) a kind of moss
used in dyeing. It is of a grayish color, and yields a pur-ple
tincture, fu^ritive, but very beautiful, which is one of
the best chemical tests for acids and alkalies, and is known
by the name of tincture of litmus. By the addition of tin
it is rendered durable as a dye, and then approaches to
scarlet. Archil, however, is most commonly employed to
give a bloom to pinks and other colors. It readily gives
out its coloring matter to water, or to any kind of spirits.
About three o'clock I had descended below the clouds,
and had a fine view of Grand Canary, and most of the
towns on the south side of this island. Just before I reached
Guimar I came to a deep ravine, from the top of which
I attempted to descend to a Guanche cave, but without
success, after descending fifteen or twenty feet. In climb-ing
back, a projecting rock gave way and fell upon my
head, which caused me to stagger quite to the brink of the
precipice. One of my feet slipped off, and fortunately,
one of my guides caught me by the arm, and saved me
from being dashed to pieces on the rocks below.
Shortly after I passed through Guimar, a pleasant vil-lage
situated on a fertile plain, and containing 2990 in-habitants,
and proceeded about a league over a barren
tract to Candelaria, where I passed the night. Most of
the inhabitants that I observed at Guimar had very small
black eyes and tawny complexions.
C A N A R Y I S L A N D S . 65
Early the next morning I pursued my way nearly a
league, at the northward, to El Baranco de Herque, where
I vTsited one of the sepulchral caverns of the Guanches. It
is entered by two comparatively small openings of the rocks,
leading to a large, dark and gloomy vault, formed by nature,
which formerly contained an immense number of mummies.
The history of the antiques of these islands is involved
in great obscurity, and their existence is best proved by the
remains of their dead ; for their posterity is nearly, if not
entirely extinct. '' The manner of embalming their dead
is not explicitly illustrated, but apparently the brain and
intestines were completely removed, after which it is said
the body was washed with an infusion of pine bark. Next,
it was anointed with butter or warm grease, which had
been boiled with such penetrating and odoriferous herbs
as were peculiar to the islands, and then it was exposed to
the sun. Being well dried, the same operations were re-peated,
and also subsequent drying, until the body was
completely impregnated with the aromatic unguent. When
reduced to very inconsiderable weight, the process was
deemed complete, and the deceased was wrapped in an
envelope, consisting of three successive layers of bandages
of tanned goat-skin, about three inches broad." Bodies
thus embalmed were carried to caves in the mountains,
and then placed upright in niches, or laid out on square
tables of stone. They appear to have selected for this pur-pose,
the most precipitous and inaccessible places that they
*6
66 CANARY ISLANDS.
could find, many of which exist on the islands where man
dares not enter his foot.
I visited several other caverns in the vicinity of this ba-ranco,
which contained immense quantities of bones that
had not been embalmed. Many of them were in a fine
state of preservation, but they were thrown together in so
confused a manner that an entire skeleton could not be
obtained. I had an opportunity, however, of comparing
the crania with those of the aborigines of the other islands,
and found a striking similarity to exist among them, prov-ing
in a degree that they all originated from the same race.
But we are informed that the natives of some of these
islands were unknown to those of others, and that the na-tives
of one island had but very little intercourse with
those of another at any rate.
In reviewing the vocabularies of the languages of the
antiques of these islands, I find a wide difference to exist
among them. However, those of Lanzarote and Fuerte-ventura
very nearly agree, and also that of Hierro nearly
coincides with that of Gomera, but the others, with the
exception of a few words, have not the least analogy. The
word ganigo, a kind of earthen ware, signified the same
on all the islands but Palma; and the word gqfio was com-mon
to all the islands except Teneritfe, Hierro and Gomera.
These two words are used throughout all the islands by
the lower classes of the natives at the present day, and
have the same signification as formerly.
It was formerly supposed that the languages of the abo-rigines
of these islands had no analogy with the living
tongues ; but since Africa has been more thoroughly in-vestigated
it is found that several words have common
roots with words of the Chilha and Gebali dialects. For
example I will cite a few words :
—
Heaven, (in Palma,) Tigotan. (in Berberic,) Tigot.
Wilk, (in Fucrtcvcntura,) Alio. " Acho.
Barley, do. Temcsen. " Tomzeen.
Basket, (in Canary,) Carianas. " Carian.
Water, (in Hierro,) Aenum. " Anan.
It is doubted whether this analogy is a proof of a com-mon
origin ; but it indicates the ancient connexion be-tween
the Guanches and Berbers, a tribe of mountaineers
CANARY ISLANDS. 67
with whom the Numidians, the Getuli, and the Garamanti
are confounded, and who extend themselves from the east-ern
extremity of Atlas by Harutsch and Fezzan, as far as
the oasis of Siwah and Angela,*
About eight o'clock I returned to Candelaria, which
takes its name from the miraculous appearance of Nucstra
Scnora de la Candelaria at this place, in 1392. She was
picked up on the beach and placed in the chapel, and was
believed, by the natives, to be the real Virgin Mary. They
looked upon her with profound veneration, and loaded her
shrine with many valuable offerings. She remained in
that situation until the 8th of November, 1826, when
she, with the chapel, was swept away by an awful hurri-cane
and deluge, and has not yet performed the miracle of
returning, though many less feasible ones are attributed to
her by her devotees. She consisted of a small, black im-age
bedecked with jewels and other trappings, and in fact
was nothing more than the figure-head of a vessel, which
washed up in that place.
About nine o'clock I left Candelaria, and pursued my
way homeward over the mountain, nearly in the same path
through which I passed yesterday.
Port Orotava, Friday, )
September 27, 1833. \
* Vide Adelung und Vater, Mitliridates, t. iii. p. 60.
LETTER XIV
Trigonometrical Jleasurement of the Peak.
The measurement of the Peak of Teneriffe has occu-pied
the attention of various individuals at different periods,
whose efforts have been attended with the widest results ;
and the obscure manner in which most of their operations
have been brought before the public has prevented us from
judging of their error or truth. Consequently, my atten-tion
has been occupied for several days past in performing
that task trigonometrically, not, however, as an object of
mere curiosity, but as being essentially connected with my
physical labors.
The ground in the Valley of Orotava being uneven and
intersected by ravines, it was impossible to find a base
extensive enough to determine the distance of the Peak
by a single triangle, consequently I employed two. I
measured on the plain between the Botanic Garden and
La Paz, my first basis a b of 100 toises, or 639 English
feet. See the followincr figure.
70 CANARY ISLANDS.
By means of this, I calculated a second « c of 1430*06
toises, and afterwards a third a p of 9953-4 toises, which
was the first grand base required. The point c was in
Mr. Cologan's garden in La Villa de la Orotava, near the
great dragon-tree spoken of in a former letter ; and the
point p was the summit of the Peak. The base a b was
measured by Mr. Hurst of London, and myself, on three
occasions, each of the measurements terminating with
nearly the same results. The following were the angles
of the two triangles taken with minute attention.
Triangle ah c. Triangle a cp, .
Angle o6c = 86° 00' Angle a cp = 119° 58'
" a c6 = 4 00 ^' ap c = 7 13
" 6«c = 90 00 " cap — 52 49
At the point a, the Peak subtended an angle of 10° 35',
by means of which, I found that its summit is elevated
1859-73 toises above the point a.
My next object was to determine the height of the point
a above the ocean. In order to do this, I employed the
same basis a 6 of 100 toises as in the preceding triangle,
from which I calculated another a o of 1339-46 toises,
which was the second grand base required. The point o
was a vessel riding at anchor in the quarantine of this port.
The follov*'ing were the angles of the triangle a b o, taken
in the same manner as those of the other triangles.
Angle abo = 137° 58'
" aoh — 2 55
" hao =z 39 07
The angle of depression from the point a to the point o,
was 19° 49', and of course, the angle of elevation from the
point to the point a, was the same. From these data, I
ascertained that the point a was elevated 48.26 toises
above the ocean. The height of the eye above the point
«, in taking the angles of elevation and depression, was
1-5 toises ; and the state of the atmosphere at the time that
the angles were taken, was perfectly serene, on account of
which, I only deducted, for the effect of refraction, 2-34
toises. Hence we may infer from the foregoing operations,
CANARY ISLANDS. 71
that the absolute height of the Peak of Teneriffe, above
the level of the ocean, is 1905'65 toises,* or 12,177 English
feet.
From the action of the elements, and the numerous
lateral eruptions to which this mountain has been subject
these last two centuries, its elevation has been considerably
diminished. I am informed that the appearance of its
summit was sensibly altered after the deluge of 1826, and
to compare the present outline of its summit with the
ancient drawings of it, there is but a very faint resemblance.
It has been asserted, that volcanoes always increase in
height, until they are extinguished, when they begin to
fall, and, by degrees, sink into the caverns below. This,
undoubtedly, has been the case in the present instance,
the lateral eruptions having exhausted a great quantity of
the bowels of the mountain, and the portions above, being
too heavy for their hollow foundations, have given way and
settled down into the mountain. Some are of an opinion,
however, that the crater of this volcano has never been
totally extinguished, and that another grand eruption is
approaching, from the fact that a hot vapor issues from its
nostrils, which is said to have gradually increased in tem-perature
within these last thirty years. This may be the
case, but it is a matter of uncertainty ; for the first time
that I visited this volcano, the vapor had a temperature of
more than 220°, and about two weeks afterwards, I found
that it had a temperature of only 160° ; but one of the
probable causes of this change was, that the summit of the
mountain existed under very different circumstances, at
one time a tremendous hurricane, and the other, scarcely
a breath of wind.
For many evenings past, my attention has been particu-larly
arrested by an extraordinary brilliancy of the zodiacal
light, and the sudden departure of the twilight. The
former is a beautiful phenomenon, constantly existing at
the equator, and presents itself just before sunrise or after
* My first basis was divided into toises of 6*39 English feet each, and of course,
all the distances calculated from it, were of the same proportion ; but more accu-rately
the Fronch toise contains 6*3957 feet ; hence the Peak has an elevation of
about 1904 toises.
72 CANARY ISLANDS.
sunset, under the appearance of a serene whitish clearness,
resembling the galaxy. It has the form of a pyramid, with
its base turned towards the sun, and its axis in the zodiac.
As we approach the poles, it appears towards the end of
winter, and in the spring, after sunset ; and in autumn, or
the beginning of winter, we observe it before sunrise.
Many theories have been advanced with regard to its cause,
but none of them satisfactory ; it must be referred, how-ever,
either to the nature of the terrestrial atmosphere, or
to the position of the globe with its relation to the sun.
The delightful spectacle of the dawn and of twilight, is
almost entirely denied to those who live in the regions of
the equator, where the sun rises in a direction nearly
vertical ; the light or darkness comes on very near the
time that the sun approaches or recedes from the horizon.
It is towards the poles that these reflected splendors are the
longest visible. As we pass northward, or southward from
the equator, they become brigkter and brighter, until they
change the whole of the night into a magic day.
Port Orotava, Friday, )
October 4, 1833."
\
LETTER XV.
Departure from Orotava.
After a protracted and satisfactory visit at Port Orotava,
I took leave of my intelligent and hospitable friend, Mr.
Diston, whose kind attentions I gratefully acknowledge,
and shall long cherish them in my remembrance. Early
in the morning of the 7th instant, 1 was prevailed upon to
visit some of the large wine cellars, connected with the
" Salvador House," in London, known under the firm of
Pasley, Little & Co. It was extremely gratifying to
observe the systematic manner in which they conducted
their business. The better classes of their wines are
fabricated with the most careful attention, and are shipped
to Europe and America under the name of Tnicriffe par-ticular
wine, and are generally drunk for Madeira. A
very bad practice exists here in bringing considerable
quantities of inferior wines from Palma and other islands,
and shipping them for those of Teneriffe, in consequence
of which, they have gone into less repute. In truth, there
are actually more wines disposed of in Europe alone under
the name of Madeira and Teneriffe, than all these islands
produce, including every kind.
At eight o'clock, I took my departure on foot, and con-tinued
my way as far as Matanzas. The morning was
splendidly beautiful ; not a wandering vapor tinged the
deep-blue sky, nor scarce a breath warped the silver mir-ror
of the sea. Myriads of glittering insects were sporting
in the sunbeams, and birds of the most brilliant plumage
were gliding through the air, alternately perching on the
fig-trees. Among them, I observed that the canary birds,
(Fringilla canaria. Lin.) held an appropriate rank. They
were, in general, of a dingy, greenish-gray, but some of
7
74 CANARY ISLANDS.
them had a yellowish tint on their backs. They appeared
to be less disposed to sing than the domestic canary, and
their note less musical, although it has been remarked,
that those which inhabit Grand Canary and Montafia
Clara, have a more harmonious song, proving in a degree,
that under every zone, among birds of the same species,
each flock has its peculiar note. The domestic yellow, or
mottled canary, is a variety which has taken birth in Europe,
being the offspring of the wild canary and the German
siskin, [Fringilla spinus. Lin.)
Early yesterday morning I pursued my way to this
city, called by the people here, Laguna. It is situated
on an elevated plain which unites with the Valley of Taco-ronte,
of which travellers of all nations speak with raptu-rous
enthusiasm. This delightful country extends from
this llano to San Juan de la Rambla, and presents scenes
of unrivalled beauty. The plain on which this city stands,
was formerly the bed of a take, and takes its name from
the Spanish word, laguna, a lake. By the annual
increase of the alluvion from the neighboring mountains,
it is now converted into richly-cultivated fields and gar-dens.
No longer than eighty years ago, some portions of
it were so fenny, that boats remained here during the
year ; and even at the present day, in the rainy seasons,
the water sometimes collects and forms a large pool, or
lake, and the inhabitants make use of boats to pass from
one place to another.
This city, in 1830, contained 6,600 inhabitants, and is
nominally the metropolis of the province. Formerly, Las
Palmas in Canary, bore that title, and yet is so much so,
that the Audencia, or Supreme Civil Court, is held there.
But virtually, Santa Cruz may be regarded as the capital,
it having been the residence of the Governor General,
who, in virtue of his military office, has been the President
of the Audencia, for more than a century. This city has
a university, two parish churches, and five convents. It
has no trade, being inhabited by many of the nobility of the
island.
Cuidad de Pun Cristobal de la Lajuna,
I
Thursday, October 10, 1833. )
/.v
J...; I I
L53
I I. ! I: . 1 I I" II. 1 I I I'lM M'l IIZT-^
;.•_ Eit/ht KpclcS
30'
X
^fadeira
^^ ISLES
C~"^"-S ct torenxr)
'.J^^-yer^^,.
es
SO}
c -^
V. KcS^^
Hieri:o Qj^'^^i:
Faljua
cu.
'^"ci.
\WA ViA I
'
:i I ! I r I --i f VI ^tbiH l[:l;,!.1 «l:liilllf—TOi^T -JM
2\Q^Vi^stfforrtGreenvttcii 1^" Tendletons Iiithecj' Hi
LETTER XVI.
Topography.
Although it is equally remote from my intention, as it
is from my power, to give a complete account of these
islands, a few succinct remarks on their history and topog-raphy
may not appear superfluous, premising that I can
speak, from my own knowledge, only of a few weeks
passed on this island. Whatever relates to the rest is de-duced
from undoubted authority.
Properly speaking, the number of the Canary Islands is
twelve ; but Alegranza, Graciosa, Montana Clara, Lobos,
and Roca del Este, being small uninhabited rocks, afford-ing
few topics of description, I shall only speak of the
other seven.
Situation,
76 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S .
and its productions, that it will be difficult for me to give
even a general description of it. Every variety of soil and
surface may be found within its narrow limits; sands as
barren and as dreary as those of the deserts of Africa,
rocks as precipitous and as magnificent as those of the
Alpine regions, and fields and vineyards as fertile and as
luxuriant as those of the most favored regions of the earth.
Within the space of about sixty miles, every object of this
multum ill parvo must, of necessity, be in small portions,
except the Peak, the mighty dome that crowns the edifice
of the whole. Its staple commodities are whines, wheat,
maize, barley, rye, pulse, potatoes, barilla, and archil.
Its chief towns are Santa Cruz, Laguna, and Orotava
which comprises two parishes, situated about two miles
apart, one called by the natives El Puerto de la Orotava
or Puerto de la Cruz, and the other La Villa de la Oro-tava
; the former contains 3,956 inhabitants, and the latter
7,800.
Grand Canary, is perhaps, more favored by nature,
than any of these islands. It possesses a very productive
soil, and an abundanceof springs of excellent water, which
are made to irrigate the land to great advantage. Its
staple products are the same as those of Teneriffe, except
barilla. Its produce of grain is proportionably large, and
is not subject to the same contingencies as that of the other
islands, which merely depends on an abundant fall of rain
at the proper season, to insure a plentiful crop. From the
same cause, the fruit of this island is generally better than
that of the others. Within these few years past, the culture
of the olive has been zealously attended to, so that there
is made, already, a considerable quantity of oil. The
making of wine with the view of exportation, is also of a
k\v years' standing ; though not equal to that of Teneriffe,
it is of a very fair quality.
Tiie division of these islands in 1826 into two bishop-rics,
instead of being as formerly, all dependant on the
see of Canary, is a great diminution of the wealth and
influence of this island. Of the three ports of the prov-ince
allowed to carry on a foreign import trade, that of
Las Palmas, the chief town of this island, is one ; and
CANARY ISLANDS. 77
those of Santa Cruz and Port Orotava in Teneriffe, the
others. All other ports of these islands may export in
foreign bottoms without difficulty ; but to import, the vessel
must first come to one of these three ports. Population of
Las Pahiias, 11,363.
Palma is almost as varied in its soil and its surface, as
Teneriffe, and still more precipitous on all but its western
side, where there is an extensive district of llanos in a high
state of cultivation. The centre of the island is thickly
wooded, and numerous rills of water descend from the
high lands, affording constant nourishment to vegetation.
The chesnut-tree attains an enormous size, there being
one, the trunk of which is partially hollow by decay, that
served as a stall for a pair of oxen for several nights in
succession. The staple products of this island, are the
same as those of Teneriffe, except barilla. Besides a
variety of fruit-trees indigenous to these islands, Palma
contains an abundance of tamarind-trees, though they
rarely give fruit. The sugar-cane flourishes w^ell here,
and the sugar produced from it, possesses a certain aro-matic
flavor, that is nowhere perceived in any other.
There are also considerable quantities of silk reared on
this island, and manufactured into garters and coarse
ribbons. Many of the cocoons are transported to Tene-riffe,
where they are reeled, and in the raw state, exported
to Spain for manufacture. Its chief towns are Santa Cruz,
which contains 4,733 inhabitants, and Mazo, which has a
population of 4,509.
Laxzarote and Fuerteventura, the two most eastern
inhabited islands of this archipelago, though